Thursday, September 22, 2011

How to check and take care of my car before a long trip?

I am going to Florida from Texas this week (1300 miles) and taking a car which I bought recently. It's a used 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 70,000 miles. The car is generally in a good condition. I have done the following maintenance works last week.



1) Transmission fluid flush with ValvolineMax life ATF.

2) Engine oil flush with 5W 30Pennzoil

3) Brake oil flush

4) Changed all the 4 tires with Pirelli all season tires

5) A brand new battery (Duralast fromAuto zone)

6) Brake check and brake pads are good.

7) Coolant level is good and looks clean (clean light green liquid and not dirty)

I took the car to a AAA free 38 point inspection. They told that I need to change wipers, the upper and lower hoses as they are soft, and PCV valve. I tried to asked the mechanic in detail, but he was not much interested in explaining and seemed just want to get the work done.



So can anyone provide me some suggestions on anymore checkings/maintenance I should perform before the trip?



Thank youHow to check and take care of my car before a long trip?
Bring it the Hyundai Service Center. They know better what to be maintained.

Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?

i have a 1998 toyota camry. i dont know much about cars and rarely get bigger work done on my car since it hasn't caused me many problems - mainly brakes, tires, and oil changes. i just came from the deadlership (i got an oil change, tire rotation, and new brake pads/rotor reface) and they told me my car:

- has a fluid leak

- has a front engine seals leak

- needs a new timing belt

- has a rear main seal leak



im pretty clueless about cars and always feel like im getting ripped off! how serious are these issues, which are most important to address first, and what are resonable costs for these repairs? about a year ago i was informed of some of these issues and they haven't cause any problems yet. i dont drive that much -- about 50 miles per week with the occasional road trip a few times a year. the car is getting old and i anticipate getting a new one in the next year or so, so i dont want to spend a lot on maintenance that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary to the life of the car....i just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road! thanks for your advice ahead of time.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
peaches, I had similar problems with my Chevrolet Equinox and last month. Get a free auto warranty quote and see if you can get the policy before you need to get your car fixed. http://www.simpleautoquotes.com/Auto-Warranty.htmlCar repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
me and my family own a 1998 toyota camry as well. as of now it is in the shop for an oil pump leak and a broken timing belt. the mechanic told me that he charges $300 for the timing belt replacement. when they replace the belt the front seal is right there so the cost of the seal is all that should apply. as far as the rear seal, the transmission and torque converter must be removed. not sure of the cost on the rear seal. the timing belts should be replaced at or around 90,000 miles. it has been a great car and have owned it for 5 years now and this is the biggest problem to date. we love the car. the 4 cylinder engine is known to go for 300,000 miles beofre a major overhaul is required.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
The timing belt would be the most important. To replace the front main seal would require removing the timing belt anyway. When replacing the front main seal, the rear needs to be changed at the same time to prevent doing the same labor on the car again (removing the oil pan). The fluid leak can be fixed any time and has nothing to do with the others.

My advice, no more than you drive, keep oil and fluid in it and keep driving for a year. If you are really concerned about being stranded, just change the timing belt.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
well the dealer isn't selling cars they need your service to keep it going. the timing chain is only recommended at the miles set to change it,in most cases these out last most cars..if your auto isn't leaking alot i would just leave it. use slick 50 or some motor oil to help seal seals

96 Ford windstar red brake light on dash?

I need to have my car inspected. The guy at the inspection station said that the ABS light being on wouldn't make it fail but the Brake light being on would. Both lights are on. I had the fluid checked and its full, so that's not the problem. When I went to have my oil changed today I asked the mechanic who did it and he said it's probably a bad sensor which I would have to order from the dealer because I can't get it at an auto parts store. Is it really likely that its a bad sensor? My brothers know how to do breaks and stuff and are going to help me out this weekend hopefully, they'll do a work up and make sure it's not something else. How much does it cost for a sensor and how much would a mechanic charge me if I had to have it done by a professional? I want to do this as cheaply as possible. Is it possible to do it yourself?96 Ford windstar red brake light on dash?
An ABS sensor is held on by an allen screw. Its really not that difficult to replace.





They are expensive though.





Try Rockauto.com to see if you can get it aftermarket before going to the dealer.96 Ford windstar red brake light on dash?
If it is just a wheel speed sensor then no they are not that expensive or hard to change. Make sure you determine which one is bad first and then it's just a matter of removing and replacing it. And you can often times get those from an auto parts chain store cheaper than a dealer.

Scooter/moped maintenance - brakes?

I found some good info online (at ehow) on maintenance on scooters/mopeds - how to clean carburetor, change oil, gear fluid, etc. but i'm having trouble finding %26quot;how to's%26quot; on inspecting/cleaning/repairing/replacing brakes. Any suggestions? Thanks in advanceScooter/moped maintenance - brakes?
Try Haynes on line.
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  • How to take care of car?

    i notice alot of people just change their oil and water for the car....but what about braking fluid and power steering fluid etc.??How to take care of car?
    Do all the basics and the car will last.How to take care of car?
    All you need to do for power steering is to periodically check to make sure none has leaked out. You should flush the brake lines and bleed them about ever couple of years to prevent accumulation of condensation, which can corrode brake cylinders and cause them to leak. By the time your front brakes need replacing, you'll need to do this. Front brakes usually wear out before the rear ones.



    Your owners manual should have recommended service intervals for these maintenance items.How to take care of car?
    get a list of the manufacturer scheduled maintenance at mileage intervals. it will include services such as tune ups, change fuel filter, air filter, flush the transmission fluid and change the transmission filter, flush the power steering fluid, flush the coolant, check the differential fluid if it has one, and just take care of anything that needs it.How to take care of car?
    ALWAYS follow the factory standards on maintenence like fluid changes and part changes. Like for instance when a part(s) start failing change them out immediately, not weeks or months or years later because they will start affecting other parts and performance. Keep it washed and wax it about once a year and you should be good to go.How to take care of car?
    brake fluid should be flushed about 20 000 km i think dont quote me on it.or your next brake job. power steering should be done every 25 000-35 000 km. look in your maunal and it will tell you the intervaltsHow to take care of car?
    If you have a manual follow it and if you don't, buy one or I'll be seeing you.

    Any idea what's causing my 1995 Nissan Altima to idle round and miss when stopped or at low speeds?

    A little back story. I purchased the car from a friend and knew up front that there was a minor oil leak, and some things needed to be replaced (brakes and axles) and it was in bad need of maintenance. I've since had all of those things replaced and had a complete diagnostic and vehicle inspection done, I had a complete tune-up, all of the filters changed, the fluids changed or topped off, and a couple other minor replacements. During the inspection the only thing noted was the minor oil leak and my check engine light was on because of the o2 sensor. The mechanic verbally told me that other than what I was in to have replaced, the car was in great shape and there was no other issues.



    Prior to getting this work done I noticed that the car would hesitate when accelerating occasionally. Mostly this would happen when taking off from a complete stop or at a very low speed. It only did this until I was at a higher speed (say on an interstate or highway) and then the problem would stop (usually once I reached 40 mph). I was told by the mechanic that the car was in dire need of a tune-up and that problem would clear up after that was taken care of. It did. After my tune-up I didn't have any issue with the car hesitating during acceleration.



    Now (2 months after the work was completed) I've started having major issues with it idling very rough, it seems to flutter and hesitate as if it's going to die but then pulls itself back up. I've had it stall once while I was at a stoplight with the air on. It started right up again afterward. For the first week or so this was happening it seemed to be connected to the usage of my AC... in fact this problem started the first time I turned my AC on for the season. After I would get settled at a higher speed (just like with the hesitation during acceleration) the problem would go away and not occur again until the car had been parked and cooled down (If I started it right back up it wouldn't have the issue). However, the next week or so the problem has progressed to doing it whether I have the AC on or not, it no longer matters how long I've driven it it still flutters and misses when idling, now it's hesitating again at full stops and at low speeds when accelerating. It always seems like it's going to die, but it doesn't. Further more, I've pulled into a parking lot and sat with my foot on the brake with it in drive for extended periods of time and it just flutters, misses, or almost stalls, but never dies. It's worse in reverse, but still doesn't die, and it's less noticeable in neutral but is still obviously fluttering. In park it doesn't seem to miss as much, but does continue to flutter. I'm taking it back to the mechanic later in the week and am having the o2 sensor replaced but would like some idea of what could be causing my idle/acceleration issue. I seem to have better luck when I can give them a direction to go in.



    To summarize:

    1995 Nissan Altima GXE Automatic Transmission

    Was hesitating during acceleration and at low speeds

    Had a complete engine tune-up that seemed to correct that issue

    2 months later began to have issues while the car was idling or at very low speeds that seemed to be connected to the AC usage.

    Has progressed to idling rough, fluttering, and missing with or without the AC at stops and low speeds and is now hesitating during acceleration again.



    Please help!Any idea what%26039;s causing my 1995 Nissan Altima to idle round and miss when stopped or at low speeds?
    Congratulations on getting your nissan fettled up. I have been doing the same with my primera, but I'm not familiar with your model so this information mainly applies to UK models.

    I assume you've had the spark plugs out for inspection to eliminate this as a cause (they are usually OK but it's the first place to start).

    I believe problems of this type with UK nissans are usually down to a faulty airflow meter (often called MAF).

    This device measures the amount of air entering the engine so that the computer can calculate the correct amount of fuel.

    When it wears out it gives the computer incorrect information leading to running problems.

    This is a fairly expensive part and you must get an original one (yours may be a Bosch but check) not a copy from eBay or elsewhere.

    It should be possible to get an exchange unit much cheaper online or via the componenet manufacturer if you are persistent and spend some time searching.

    You get a factory refurbished part plus some of your money back later when you send in your old unit.

    You need to get the numbers off the unit on your car in order to ensure that you get the right part.

    It is situated in the air intake after the air filter but before the throttle and has an electrical connector plugged into it.

    The MAF sensor usually comes complete with its housing.

    It is unlikely that the O2 sensor itself is faulty but the O2 engine code is often triggered by the faulty airflow meter.

    However, if the voltages of the O2 sensor have been checked and found to be incorrect rather than merely relying on the engine check code then it would be OK to change it and it is not as expensive.

    Another common problem is when a coil breaks down and as these are relatively inexpensive I recommend carrying a spare in the car.

    I think that this is less likely as it usually causes jerky progress when the car is under load e.g. accelerating.

    Before replacing any parts check that there are no air leaks via split or loose hoses or bad electrical connections around the air intake and throttle as these can cause these symptoms.

    There are additionally many other potential causes but the MAF is by far the most common.

    Additionally, ask for further information from a nissan owners forum.

    Good luck.

    What do you think?

    How much should I ask for a 1996 Z3, perfect condition, 52000 miles, black, with;

    Roots Supercharger to 8 PSI (increased optional)

    256/10 street cams

    Ross aluminum pistons

    Compression ratio milled at 9:1

    Cold air intake

    Hot cat-back exhaust

    Ignition booster

    Adjustable fuel regulator

    235 Horsepower - over 200 Lb Ft Torque

    Sport Springs

    Adjustable front %26amp; rear caster/camber

    Stress Bars front %26amp; rear

    Cold hardened brake disks

    Steel brake lines w/ KevlarCopper pads

    Bilstein shocks

    Heavy duty sway bars

    Air splitters

    Chrome %26amp; Burl wood interior

    Hood Locks

    Garage kept, winter stored

    Top and rear window like new condition

    Glass-like finish

    New tires and battery

    All fluids changes every 2000 miles

    All fluids synthetic

    Never used as everyday car, never racedWhat do you think?
    Looks like you took care of her. KBB says to ask about $7800 for it. I would list it for $8500. Trade in is crap. Unfortunately you don't get any of the money back on the mods you did, matter of fact they actually lower the value to a dealer. Private party may give you a little extra for them. If this guy is serious, then take him up on the $10,000 to $15,000.What do you think?
    have you tried kbb.com? z3's that old usually aren't worth too much.. usually between 10 an 15 i'd think.. i'm interested in it though!

    I need help finding a web site? Please?

    Im looking for a good website about cars. if anyone knows of some that has like images or video or even manual that would be grate.I'm having problems with my car and want to repair it myself. i know it is a hard job but i have done other projects on all types of cars and i would love to know how to fix a head gasket. i have done water pumps and brakes and rotors.also me and my daughter replaced a radiator in toyota previa van. oil changes spark plugs. transmission fluid changes. Ive done thermostat water hose changes;alternator's;starter;shocks and struts. so i think i can take on another project. all i need is manual. im broke and out of work so money is tight right now or else i would buy me the book i went down to auto zone and they did not have the book any ways. i live the out in the country side of the city that i live in and transportation for school and work is a need for me and my children i would love to get started on tearing this car apart just need your support. thanks and happy holidays to you all.I need help finding a web site? Please?
    if you cant find it on line you can always go to the library and check out a repair manualI need help finding a web site? Please?
    type in %26quot;car%26quot; on google idiotI need help finding a web site? Please?
    Not sure what you meaan, but try thee link.. might help a little?I need help finding a web site? Please?
    YOUTUBE IT!

    youtube.comI need help finding a web site? Please?
    I don't know the year/make and or model of car, but you can go to www.autozone.com, type in the year/make/model/engine of most cars, trucks or vans and click on repair info on left side and then on vehichle repair guides in middle of page and get most repair manuals online.I need help finding a web site? Please?
    Is your car over head valve or OHC. Is the engine strait or %26quot;V%26quot; (V6, V8) configuration... If your are lucky, the car (truck) is strait over head valve. then it will be as simple as removing the exhaust manifild, gas lines maybe some wire conections, vacume hoses and valve cover then you may unbolt the head take it to a machine shop and have it checked/surfaced. You will need to clean all the antifreeze out of the cylinders and clean the block maiting surface. You need info on head torque specs and tightning patern. If the care is newer and %26quot;V%26quot; config and OHC you have to remove the vally (intake manifold) and two exhaust manifolds plus timing chains/belts on %26quot;V%26quot; configs you need do BOTH heads. I would recomend you take it to a mechanic, because this can get hairy for a light weight and some one with a full set of teeth ;-)

    How much will it cost to service my 97 2.0L mondeo?

    Just bought it and going through the logbook there are a couple of things that haven't been done at the correct intervals.



    Firstly I'd like to know how much a typical 10k service will cost.



    Secondly, how much would it be to just fix these things:

    * Oil and filter change

    * New pollen filter

    * renew air filter

    * clean pcv filter (theres a psv filter cleaning in the logbook...same thing???typo???)

    * renew brake fluid

    * renew fuel filter



    Please can you give individual prices for each.



    ThanksHow much will it cost to service my 97 2.0L mondeo?
    Oil: 49.99

    Cabin.pollen filter: 25.55

    Air filter:15.35

    PCV valve: 9.35

    Brake fluid flush and fill: $105

    Fuel filter: $100 part and labour.
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  • Honda ATC 250R Boggs out after 2 hours of riding.?

    I pulled my dads 1983 250R out of an old farm shed the other day got new tires air filter gas fuel line brake fluid its all serviced... However after 2 or so hours of riding in the river it begins to bog out on my as if its not getting one of air fuel or spark so because i know its getting air and fuel i checked the plug it was dry black residue i replaced the spark plug and it ran fine for another 2 hours or so then it went to hell again so I need to know why the plug is becoming this way so fast im running 20:1 which is what it says to run on the gas tank is the air to fuel mixture out of whack? How do i change the air to fuel mixture? don't know what else to do need detailed helpHonda ATC 250R Boggs out after 2 hours of riding.?
    20 to 1 is too rich, and you are dry fouling the plug, mix at 40 to 1 and you should be good, todays oil is far better than the 2 stroke oil in 1983

    How to read a Jiffy Lube invoice?11?

    I just got the signature oil change at my local Jiffy Lube on Street Road in Bensalem, PA. I drive a 2001 Buick Century Limited with 189k miles with original parts, and I am the second owner. After reading the horror stories about Jiffy Lube, I went there anyway because I needed an oil change, and under the %26quot;Service Comments%26quot;, it says %26quot;Arrival: Minor Oil Leak%26quot; and %26quot;Arrival: Minor Transmission Leak%26quot;



    It also says lists the following:



    MFG Recommends Transmission Service, Coolant Service, Fuel Filter Service, and Tire Rotation.



    As well as stating on the bottom of the Service Comments Box



    %26quot;Trans Over Fill PTS%26quot;



    Lastly, the service checklist also tells me that my brake fluid is low.



    What does all of this mean/entail, and how serious is that assessment?How to read a Jiffy Lube invoice?11?
    blessings....first things first.you always go over everything with theses stores in person.you have them show you everything and have a ledger or Camera waiting to shot the damaged units or parts they say are or are going bad. then you take your car to a real mechanic an see if the estimates are the same .never show either of them the others list.you are also in titled to watch the work,and get all your parts back in return;that is unless you decide to sell them to them...water pumps radiator's,anything that makes them money.basically they are telling you a machine is telling them these things are wrong,when they may not be.to break it down,most vehicles are on chips...which means they really on a machine to trust the results.MFG-says its to give the correct levels of fluid in the vehicle.if you haven't had them checked in 3000 miles there's a chance you might need a few.if you have over fill points in your transmission you would be leaking it,an should be showed to you.If your brake fluid is low ask them them all the questions you need answered...they work for you not the other way around!second experience knowledge is always a must.ask your self this...how did the transmission fluid get over filled! who did the last an were did you have it done,because jiffy lube puts a sticker on your window for next date to have service.safety is what keeps you safe.keep your vehicle up to par an remember there's plenty of places that will explain an show you everything to you that comes to playing the fix it without the expense.an always make sure your parts are yours when they return them....good luck...blessed be...!How to read a Jiffy Lube invoice?11?
    It means either you or whoever worked on your car in the past put in too much transmission fluid. I would take it to a trusted mechanic and replace the gaskets on the engine and the transmission(along with a good flush on both due to mileage) and get the master cylinder and brake lines looked at regarding the brake fluid being low. What might of happened with the transmission is the guy that checked it probally didn't let the car idle long enough. Automatic transmissions you have to check it with the car on and fully warmed up.How to read a Jiffy Lube invoice?11?
    It all sounds normal. A %26quot;minor oil leak%26quot; is just a gasket sweating, nothing to be worried about. If it were forming a drip, they would have called it a leak. MFG is the %26quot;manufacturer%26quot;, and your owners hand book recommends certain services to take place at certain mileages, depending on the severity of service, the vehicle is seeing. Driving in heavy rain, often, gravel roads, steep hills, or trailer towing, for example, would require you to service the vehicle more often. %26quot;Trans Over Fill PTS%26quot; points the the automatic transmission, oil level. Next time you drive the car, for 20 miles or more, pull over, where safe to do so, and check your transmission fluid level, ( it is a dip stick, near the firewall, CENTRE of the engine, and it is probable painted red). Pull the stick, wipe it off, reinsert it into the tube, re-pull it, and read the fluid height, from the wetness on the stick. It should be at or slightly below the top mark, that says %26quot;Full HOT%26quot; If at or slightly above the mark, you are good to go. If over by half an inch, have some removed.( Suction device, or loosen off a cooler line while running, will drain some out.) Lastly,%26quot; Brake fluid low%26quot;. The brake fluid will go down in the reservoir, as your brakes wear, this is normal. You should never have to add brake fluid, because when it gets too low, you need to replace the brake pads, and shoes. When these are replaced, it will push the brake fluid back up into the reservoir, and it will be full again. It sounds like your jiffy lube did a good job. If you have any questions, ask the attendant before you pay him for the oil change. I am sure he would be more than willing to explain it all to you.How to read a Jiffy Lube invoice?11?
    the real question is when was the last you had any of these done %26quot;Transmission Service, Coolant Service, Fuel Filter Service, and Tire Rotation.%26quot;?

    What are some basic car maintenance tips?

    I just bought myself a car. It's the first car in the family so I can't ask anyone at home. All I have been doing so far is to fill up the gas tank and drive.

    Now I know I should get an oil change every x months or x km driven. What else is there in terms of car maintenance? Once a month car wash to keep the car rust free? Or is that rust proofing? I am reading online something about transmission fluid, brake fluid, and steering fluid. How do I know what to do with those or when? I don't want to show up in a garage and let them sell me things I don't really need. I read horror stories about those places online. I just want to know from a fellow car owner on how you maintain your vehicle. Yes, I am an absolute noob when it comes to this matter.What are some basic car maintenance tips?
    Here is the website on the subject. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/simpWhat are some basic car maintenance tips?
    I am also a noob



    bumpWhat are some basic car maintenance tips?
    When ever I bought a used car the first thing I would do is go out and buy a repair manual for my car make and model. Saves you money, shows you how to do some basic repairs, trouble shoot, explains how things work. Invaluable tool. You can teach yourself to do some basic repairs and upkeep, thus keeping money in your pocket. Knowledge is the key. Give you an example. My son purchased a Ford ranger and one day his truck overheated, he of course had not taken an interest in car maintenance and decided to take it to Pep Boys. Before he took it there I had suggested to him check the most inexpensive item first, then work your way. I suggested it would be his thermostat and to look online and see where it is located. He dismissed my thoughts as an old mother's lack of knowledge. Anyways he comes back to me one day and ask what does he need to fix the thermostat, I tell him what to do and we have it fixed in under one hour. He says thanks mom, they wanted to charge me $100 to do the same thing! His cost under $10 saved $90What are some basic car maintenance tips?
    By far the most important thing you can do is read through the periodic maintenance section of the owner's manual. Toyota has a separate pamphlet called Passport to Maintenance for the schedule, and I figure other brands have something similar. In any case, reviewing what is required will probably reveal a surprise or two. There may be timing belt replacement intervals which must be followed lest the Grim Reaper of engines visit you while you are driving so pleasantly.



    More and more automatic transmissions require frequent fluid replacement, while some (I'm thinking of GM) aren't even checked between change intervals. For all fluids, adhere to the change (and flush, if specified) interval religiously. Oil is still important, but transmission fluids and coolants have become every bit as critical. I never add brake fluid between brake jobs, because the drop in the fluid level is either a good indication of the pads being worn enough to inspect or a leak that must be fixed.



    I also recommend you have the shop that will repair your worst problems be the one that does the routine maintenance, especially if it is the dealership. The shop can be a good friend to have if you are having warranty problems and can easily save you hundreds of dollars over the life of the car.



    Oh - most important: enjoy your new car! If you don't enjoy it you won't care about it and it will never be worth what you spend.

    What type of coolant goes into a 2004 dodge sx 2.0?

    Hey guys, my car is at 108k and I want to change out the coolant as preventative maintenance. I just cant find out what type of coolant that it takes. As for a rad flush goes, what do you guys recommend? I was also wondering what other types of maintenance that I can do at this interval? I just changed the oil, I got some new ATF that I have yet to put in. What are other things that I should replace or check? Is it time for new brake fluid and and air filter? And finally, the drum brakes are starting to go or have gone, and I was wondering if anybody knew how much torque to apply on the spindle nut that holds everything in?



    Thanks!What type of coolant goes into a 2004 dodge sx 2.0?
    The recommended formulation for Chrysler (Dodge) is: ZEREZ G-05.



    NAPA nad Carquest has this specific type of antifreeze.

    Would you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can't afford to pay my credit card creditors?

    After I pay my %26quot;fixed expenditures%26quot;, I don't have any $ left to pay my credit card creditors. So, I've decided to hide from my creditors since they don't understand that I have no money. I don't have a landline so they can't contact me by phone. Their letters are not opened, just immediately thrown away. They literally have no other way to contact me. If I make only X amount of $ a month, how can I pay these creditors XX amount of $? I only have the basic necessities at home - no phone, no cable TV, no internet (I'm using a free public library computer to type this). So, do you agree that I did the right thing by hiding since the creditors have no compassion?



    Here's a list of my monthly %26quot;fixed expenditures%26quot;:



    Rent - $450

    Gas Heating/Hot Water/Cooking - $150

    Car Insurance - $177

    Car Warranty - $125

    Life Insurance - $100

    Health Insurance - $96

    Prescriptions ?(total of 3 each month equaling $260)

    Electricity ?$48 ($74/mo during the summer for added cooling costs - necessary due to my health/asthma)

    Laundry - $24 for supplies, cost of loads, etc.

    Household Goods - $20 (cleaning supplies, toilet tissue, dish/laundry detergent, etc.)

    Personal Goods - $30 (shampoo, soap, deodorant, toothpaste, etc.)

    Clothing - $50

    Haircut - $17

    Postage/Stamps - $9

    Money Orders - $4.20 to $8/mo (I need to pay my bills via money order because I do not have a checking account)

    Car Fuel/Gasoline - $30/wk (since gas prices are consistently increasing)

    Parking/Tolls to get to work - $15/wk

    Car Fluids, etc. (Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Oil, Cleaning Supplies, Windshield Wiper Fluid) - $10

    Food - $100 (or $25/wk on average)



    Here's a list of my yearly, etc. %26quot;fixed expenditures%26quot;:



    Car Inspection/Emissions Test - $56/year

    Car Registration - $38/yr

    Driver檚 License Renewal - $28/every 4 yrs

    AAA (Emergency Roadside Assistance) - $81/yr

    H%26amp;R Block Tax Services - $234/yr

    Car Oil Change - $50/every 3 mos

    Doctor/Eye/Dental copays - $60 ($15/each) for every appointment - at least 2 or 3 times/yr

    Car Upkeep (Tires) - $200 on average ($50 for each tire)

    Car Upkeep (Belts/Hoses/Spark Plugs/Battery/Wipers) - $150/yrWould you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can%26039;t afford to pay my credit card creditors?
    First, you need to get a checking account.



    Next, without listing your income, it is impossible to figure out what your budget should be and if you are living within it.



    My question is, if these are all of your fixed expenses and you are able to pay all of these expenses without a credit card, what have you been spending money on that got you into the credit card debt in the first place?



    Also, you have some questionable expenses, such as paying that much to have your taxes done, when it should be relatively easy to do them yourself at no cost.Would you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can%26039;t afford to pay my credit card creditors?
    While your list is highly detailed, some of it is frankly off.



    Postage is too high, food is way too low. Clothing is low. Personal items is too high, How often are you replacing tires? I lose a tire every few years.



    If your income is that low, get your taxes done for free by the IRS/VITA.



    You blew it if you bought a car warranty for $1200 a year.



    You don't need life insurance (you don't have a spouse or children).



    And you've never addressed the issue of why you have credit card debt. Hiding does *nothing.* The CC lenders will sue you, win when you don't show up in court and will send court orders to your employer to garnish your wages.Would you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can%26039;t afford to pay my credit card creditors?
    It isn't the answer you want to hear, but no, I don't think you are justified in %26quot;hiding%26quot; from the credit card companies. They didn't force you to purchase what you did on the cards. While they do most likely have outrageous interest rates, you did enter into an agreement with them and you agreed to pay. They are a business, but they have employees that are real people, and if too many people do what you do then they lose their jobs and it all gets worse.



    I did the math, and your expenses are less than $23,000 a year. If you are not making that at the job your work now, I would recommend getting a new job or a second job.Would you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can%26039;t afford to pay my credit card creditors?
    Debt doesn't just go away. It will wait for you to resurface, then bite you in the butt. Chances are you'll need credit for something eventually. Not to mention the interest that will continue to accrue on those accounts. You can try to renegotiate the debt with your credit card company, get another job to try to make more money, or talk to a lawyer about declaring bankruptcy.Would you consider me a deadbeat debtor if I can%26039;t afford to pay my credit card creditors?
    http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=debt+la

    It looks like your expenditures are inflated.
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  • I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?

    The 87 Ford F150 is a 2WD 4.9L in-line 6 manuel trans with dual tank. I changed the oil and oil filter, replaced the wiper motor with used part (mine was slow and stopping), new wipers, replaced the power booster with used part (mine had vacuum leak)(also this one is a little bigger then old one was), replaced bad seal in RR axle and added new gear oil, replaced 90% of brake lines because of rusty and broke when bleeding brakes (all clean brake Fluid now in lines), replaced center drag link (mine was egged and loose steering), replaced seals in steering for leaking, and added clamps to leaf springs (old ones broke or missing). I am not sure what else is need to do a tune up. I see and know of new spark plug wires and dis. cap. New starter and starter solenoid. The truck is running rich with black spitting out exhaust pipe. Have to change the valve cover gasket because of leaking oil as well as oil pan gasket. For oil pan gasket can i use the liquid gasket on it or buy a gasket? Please help me with my truck. How do i test the EGR valve also? Thank you!!I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    try to check it out first on auto repair shop..I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    I think you may have spent more than the truck is worth, but I think I can help with the brake light problem.



    The switch for the brake light is inside near the top of the pedal. As the pedal is mashed, the switch contact makes and the lights come on. there is normally an adjusting nut to set the plunger closer to the pedal in full released position. you need to adjust so that there is about the double distance of a matchbook cover between the plunger and the pedal. This should allow the lights to come on as soon as any pressure is placed on the pedal.I have an 1987 Ford F150 that needs a tune up and more?
    sounds like a vaccuum leak causing the richness and that produces the black smoke. check power booster for leaks or disconnected line.

    have someone press brakes while you listen near booster for sounds of air leak. if no check other vaccuum lines by carefully spraying carb cleaner on all lines and if you hear a change in engine idle while doing this then the leak is in that area.

    also adjust brake light switch.

    How can I make my high mileage '94 Honda Accord last longer?

    I bought an automatic '94 Honda Accord LX used at 135,000 miles and it now has 145,000 miles. I don't know its previous history but it runs great and I just recently had some maintenance work done to it like replacing spark plugs, air filter, pcv valve, drive belts(power steering and alternator), oxygen sensor, front brake pads and valve cover gasket to fix a bad oil leak. I change the oil every 3000 miles and always make sure I have enough oil, transmission, power steering, antifreeze and brake fluid. I'd like to make this car last as long as I can, hopefully another 100,000. What else will help my Honda achieve that? Any tips will be appreciated, thanks!How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?
    That's about it. Keep doing those things as required and you should be good.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?
    I have a '95 honda accord. Unless you completely neglect this car it can go up to 250,000 - 300,000 easily. Just keep doing what your doing.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?
    Congratulations

    So very nice to hear from a responsible car owner.

    You're doing everything you should, keep it up.

    My brother inlaw has a 96 and it just turned over 300k with regular maintenance and repairs.How can I make my high mileage %26039;94 Honda Accord last longer?
    Great car! make sure you keep up with the timming belt changes every 105,000 miles, oil change every 3,000 miles and it will run a very long time. Cv axle boots dry crack and it's best to replace the boots before they split and damage the axles. Honda engines are very well bulit. The transmissions are good too. Transmission will probably need overhaul before the engine will. Your recent repairs may have been expensive, but it's cheaper than a new car payment.

    Was all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?

    Just recently took my '06 Infiniti G35 Coupe to Infiniti and my car is at 37k miles and I need to do my 30k. Infiniti called me and told me that my drive belts were cracked

    and needed to be replaced and that my rear brakes needed to be replaced. (Pads and resurfacing) I checked my drive belts and they were indeed cracked.



    So basically they want 1278.00 to do my brakes, replace my belts, replace my engine air filter and do the 30k maintenance.



    I just took my car to Express Tire on Poway Rd. and they're doing the brakes for 234, both belts for 200 with a lifetime warranty on them and they're special service which includes:

    -a full synthetic oil change and oil filter change

    -engine flush

    -engine air filter replaced

    -fuel injectors cleaned

    -throttle body service

    -power steering fluid exchange

    -brake fluid exchange

    -radiator antifreeze exchange



    Well I know one of the guys that works here and they're doing all of that for 600 bucks TOTAL.



    My main question is how can I check the quality of work done and if it was actually done or not?

    I have never worked on cars but I have friends that work on them.



    Also, was all that work really worth 600 bucks?Was all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?
    60% of what you had done was pure bs, you tell me what was bs and what wasnt, ill pass you, and ya users will give you a diploma, serious!Was all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?
    HI

    1) a full synthetic oil change and oil filter change

    (look at the oil on the dip stick and look to see if the filter is new)

    2) -engine flush

    (no real way to tell sense the oil well or should be new) (this is kind of a bunk service)

    3)-engine air filter replaced

    (look at the filter hold it up to a bright light and see if you can see through it clearly)

    4) -fuel injectors cleaned

    ( all they well do for this is put some injector cleaner in the gas tank they won't pull the injectors and clean them)

    5) -throttle body service

    ( this is bunk as well they won't take the throttle body apart they'll just use the injector cleaner in the tank and call it good, they may spray cleaner thru the MASS flow.)

    6) -power steering fluid exchange

    (you would have to look and smell the fluid before and after to see if it is new.. Old well have a used smell.)

    7) -brake fluid exchange

    (this is hard to tell maybe check the fluid color and smell before and after the work)

    8) -radiator antifreeze exchange

    (you would have to look at the fluid before and after the change and see if there is a differences)



    good luck

    timWas all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?
    Not only is most of that B.S, but the manufacturer has issued technical service bulletins warning the dealer NOT to do engine flushes and fuel injector cleaning. See the posts below. Replacing the air filter is fine, if it needed it. A coolant flush at 30K miles was totally unnecessary since your car was filled at the factory with long life coolant. The brake fluid exchange IS a recommended service. The power steering fluid change isn't on the recommended list, but won't hurt anything if done properly. The throttle body cleaning is also total B.S. unless you had an idling problem. I highly doubt that the serpentine belt needed to be changed. Cracks in the belt are common and are NOT a reason to change it unless there are cracks all the way across all the ribs within a 1%26quot; area.



    You pretty much got fleeced.Was all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?
    I think you got taken for a ride. Most of those listed were not necessary except perhaps for the oil change. Check your Owner's Manual for the requirements for maintenance schedule. At this point my advice is to change your oil according to the Manual, make sure all your fluids (brake, power steering, auto tranny, etc) are up and your air filters clean. BTW, the small hairline cracks in your serpentine belts are normal. Just watch for signs of shredding. Also you don't need any brake job at that mileage unless you drive in a severe condition or tend to panic brake.Was all this work worth the price and how can I check if all the work was really done and the quality of it?
    I would say there is really no practical way of finding out if most of this work was done.Provided that it was,the charges are not too bad.The question ,of course,is whether it was all necessary.If you plan to keep the car and add lots of miles then it was a wise move.This is one of those situations we all get trapped in,whether it's the car or house or appliance or whatever.Personally,I try not to make a financial decision of that magnitude without thinking it over for a few days.

    Scooter/Moped maintenance and repair - Brakes?

    I found some good info online (at ehow) on maintenance on scooters/mopeds - how to clean carburetor, change oil, gear fluid, etc. but i'm having trouble finding %26quot;how to's%26quot; on inspecting/cleaning/repairing/replacing brakes. Any suggestions? Thanks in advanceScooter/Moped maintenance and repair - Brakes?
    Brakes are really pretty simple. Most use a drum brake system

    You simply need to remove the wheels. Most of the time this will require you to unscrew the brake and speedo cable up front and the brake cable in back. Then unscrew the axle bolt through the wheel. Use the right size ratchet and not a wrench as these can strip easily, especially for the chinese brands. Sometimes a car lug wrench will fit. Once it's out, drop the wheel out. you may need to pull the axle right out to remove the wheel. If you remove one wheel at a time, the bike should rest on the other wheel and the center stand while you work on it.



    The brake system should come easily out of the wheel. Inside the drum are 2 crecent shaped pads. They're held in place by a spring and you can pretty easily pop them out. Check the pad depth, if any metal shows they'll need to be replaced. You buy the pads on new shoes, check your bike's specs to see what size, and when they arrive just pop them in. Then reassemble basically the reverse of how you disassembled. Each wheel will have a slot on the outside of brake assembly that will slide over a little peg on the bike forks that keeps the brake assembly aligned properly while the wheel spins.

    Then you'll just reattach the cables and you should be good. The ends of the brake cables have a nut and spring that you can tighten or loosen until the wheel spins freely and brakes engage when you pull the lever. Test them out going slowly at first. Sometimes they'll take a little while to wear in comfortably.



    If your bike uses disk brakes you can leave the wheel on. Locate the brake caliper on the disk and open it by unscrewing, don't take it off, you should be able to swing it open and get to the pads. Take out the old ones and be sure to press the pushrods behind the pads in all of the way before installing new ones. You will also need to have the brake fluid reservoir open so that you can push this in more easily. Pop the new ones in and put it back together. You may need to top off the brake fluid or adjust the cable if it's not hydraulic.



    On some scooters the muffler, engine or body panels may restrict you from accessing the wheels, particularly the rear. They will need to be removed which makes the project a bit more complicated and you should seek around for additional info on how to do that for your particular bike.



    Shops may charge over 100 bucks but you could do it yourself in an hour for just the cost of the pads which should be around 30 for front and back.

    Anyone know a lot about brakes?

    While replacing my rotors and pads on my Explorer, the right front caliper pushed one of it's pistons out and green fluid gushed out. What was that fluid? (i assume it was HSMO brake fluid) I properly installed everything and appear to have no leaks. Unknowingly at the time, I replaced some of the fluid with DOT 3 fluid. I was told your not supposed to mix the two.



    I bled the brakes to get the last air out of them and dark fluid came out, which I assume is heavily moisterized brake fluid. But I don't know how it changed color from green to dark brown that fast?



    The fluid that came out of the brake caliper, was that brake fluid? if not what was it and how do I replace it? The brakes are currently still a little too squishy, should I just flush the system and try with new brake fluid? or have a caused another problem on accident. I'm pretty hand with making vehicles go fast but apparently not with stopping them. :PAnyone know a lot about brakes?
    You said it. Yes by all means flush the fluid out of the system and start over. Does the book say DOT 3 is ok. Why did you have HSMO brake fluid in the system. Need to make some trips to a resource and get the answer. Good luckAnyone know a lot about brakes?
    HSMO is not good for a car that is not made to use HSMO Brake fluid. It's petroleum based and will eat the rubber seals in your master cylinder, calipers, valves and rubber brake hoses. The only cars that I know of that use it as Citreon, Rolls Royce, some Audis, and some jags.

    Report Abuse

    Anyone know a lot about brakes?
    get the proper fluid and flush the system out with it until it comes out the right color..Anyone know a lot about brakes?
    you might have to bleed from the master cylinder
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  • Should I follow Toyota's service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?

    2005 Toyota Highlander



    I really don't feel like paying alot for the dealer to %26quot;inspect%26quot; things on my car although Toyota's service schedule recommends it.



    Someone on a Toyota forum told me this, what do you think?



    If you intend on just draining and filling your fluids you should do your transmission fluid and engine coolant at 30k. If you intend on flushing those systems you can wait until you reach 45k, at that point I would do trans fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid and brake fluid. How I recommend to my customers to maintain their vehicle is 5k oil changes and tire rotations, 15k along with the aforementioned do a wheel balance and alignment, between 15k-20k change your cabin filter and engine air filter (depending on where you live, i.e. dust, a lot of pollen, etc. 30k-45k recommend engine coolant and trans fluid, as well as brake fluid and power steering fluid closer at 45k. Between 45k-60k I would do your front and rear differential fluid if you have 4wd/awd and maybe a fuel injection cleaning. At 60k-90k I recommend plugs, plug wires, PCV valve (at least check it). At 90k I recommend (depending on the car, year) timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seals, accessory drive belts (serpentine drive belts) if they haven't been changed recently since you have to remove them to do timing belt, etc. That's maintenance.



    Repairs such as brake pads, new tires, drive belts, etc are as needed.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
    Nice vehicle, if you do the maintenance suggested, it will last and last.



    The vehicle is getting older.... if it doesnt have any warranty, follow the schedule but dont get dealers to do it because yes, they are way more money, especially toyota... find a good independent mechanic.. small guy.. who knows toyotas.... it will cost you half...



    I always maintain my vehicles according to maintenance schedules and they last.. my honda is ten years old, going on 11.. its like new..d drives like new... looks amazing... no worries and I follow hondas recommended plan.. but I have taken it to an independent guy for the last six years.... and it costs little compared to the dealer....



    Oil... always change at 5000k..... its the blood of the vehicleShould I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
    sounds good i don't think you missed alot of stuff if any. usually as long as you keep up with the oil changes and regular stuff that pops up your toyota is going over 200,000 thousand miles with no strain and a good chance into the 300's. do you have a warranty left? that is gonna void the warranty if you awol the service on it.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
    Follow the schedule %26amp; rule of thumb. You don't have to go to the dealer. Do it yourself or go independent.

    Why have both front brakes seized up on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee???

    The brake pads were changed about 1 month ago, but until yesterday, the truck was driving fine. Now all at once, both front brakes have seized up and I'm trying to figure out why. It doesn't make sense that both calipers would fail at EXACTLY the same time. My father suggested that the master cylinder is bad, but I don't want to jump to conclusions...



    Has anyone ever had this problem before? What should I check first? And if all else fails, how can I be positive that the master cylinder is bad?



    The metal brake lines were recently changed and flushed by the dealer, and there is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder. Any and all opinions are very much appreciated!



    Thank you in advance.Why have both front brakes seized up on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee???
    This happens alot. DOT 3 brake fluid absorbs moisture over time a corrosion ridge forms on the caliper bore and or piston. Water is heavier than brake fluid and falls to the lowest point in the system. When you push the caliper piston back to install the new thicker pads the piston seal is now riding in the area of corrosion. The seal can only flex so far to release. The brakes %26quot;sieze%26quot; because the piston is stuck in this area of corrosion instead of being free in the bore.. Crack the bleeder, if the piston presses back easy it is a brake hose, if it still wont press back it is a caliper problem.Why have both front brakes seized up on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee???
    that is pretty suspect. Check for any recalls on that. I had a 97 and got new rotors for free from a recall. Just trying to save you any money i can. Why have both front brakes seized up on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee???
    bleed them then change master cylinderWhy have both front brakes seized up on my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee???
    Please add more to the definition of %26quot;siezed up%26quot;. I have had a similar problem in the past. When you apply the brakes, they seem to drag, heat up, and smell like burning. It took me a long time to figure out that the problem was the rubber hoses that go from the metal lines to the wheel cylinders. The lining deteriorates and debris from this acts like a one-way check valve. Fluid pressure that applies the brakes gets trapped in the cylinder and keeps the brakes on. Bleeding the brake lines doesn't help. When the bleeders are cracked open, fluid squirting out under pressure is an indication that this is the problem.



    It is most likely not the master cylinder.

    Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?

    I have recently been doing my own repairs/maintenance on my cars. I always use a haynes manual and have or can aquire all of the necessary tools. Recently I changed the oil pan gasket (oil leak), replaced brake fluid and transmission fluid, replaced pvc valve, and I have always changed my own oil.



    Im a little slow at doing these things as I like to take my time and do them right. If I did it myself, how long do you think it would take.



    I just don't want to go over my head.. I read the instructionss and it doesnt seem to hard. Also, I would likely replace the water pump as well.



    Note: I'm not being cheap... Its partially for the savings but also because I like to do these things myself.Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?
    It's a big task - but if you want to be adventurous and want to tinker - I dont see why not. Make sure you have a piggie bank in the event you need to buy a new car. Getting at the timing belt and screwing up could cost you your engine.



    But if it's something you love to do - go for it.Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?
    the book calls for 4.8 hrs. you need to remove the radiator and all of the belt driven accessories. if you dont line up the gears properly it will not run and you could cause serious engine damage. its a fairly easy job if you are mechaincly inclined, also you shouldnt ever have to replace a timing chain unless it breaks which almost never happens, but if you want to fix what aint broke dont say i didnt warn you. it will cost you about $100 bucks for every thing provided you dont open up a can of worms good luck

    Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?

    I have recently been doing my own repairs/maintenance on my cars. I always use a haynes manual and have or can aquire all of the necessary tools. Recently I changed the oil pan gasket (oil leak), replaced brake fluid and transmission fluid, replaced pvc valve, and I have always changed my own oil.



    Im a little slow at doing these things as I like to take my time and do them right. If I did it myself, how long do you think it would take.



    I just don't want to go over my head.. I read the instructionss and it doesnt seem to hard. Also, I would likely replace the water pump as well.



    Note: I'm not being cheap... Its partially for the savings but also because I like to do these things myself.Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?
    I would not recommend it at all but if you think you can do it then go for it but remember that the 2.7 engine is one of the worse engine ever built so make sure that %26quot;everything%26quot; is done perfect....Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?
    If you're comfortable trying it and you have the tools, manuals, parts and mechanical aptitude necessary I'd say go for it.



    Be aware that if you screw up the timing when changing the chain, the engine could be destroyed entirely. If you trust your ability to do it right the first time, I'd say take your time, follow the manual to the letter and give it a shot. If you're not 100% sure you can do it for whatever reason and you don't want to risk grenading the whole engine if you screw up, take it to a pro.Should I replace the timing chaing on my 2000 2.7liter dodge intrepid myself?
    yes if you know how to do this type of work than i say yes you not only save money but lots of time a few head ache is worth it but with today cars you really have to know what your doing or it will cost you a lot more than you want. Rose

    Can anyone tell me how hard to change an auto transmission of a 2000 altima?

    Before you answer that. I had a blown tire in the highway and state trooper had it towed to a lot. When i went to pick up my car, it would not move. Car started fine and engine running but not moving when I put in all gears. All I hear is engine reving when I apply gas. I notice a hole under the trans pan and trans fluid had all leaked out. Is my transmission blown?



    Anyway, back to my original question. I am not a mechanic but mechanically incline and had changed out my timing belt, struts, shocks, brakes, alternator and starter on a car before.



    I have a haynes manual but only use it for backup due to inaccuracy. I end up usually going online for better reference. Is there something I should look out for? Is there a special tool? Any advise or photos are appreciated...thanks!Can anyone tell me how hard to change an auto transmission of a 2000 altima?
    Yes it is difficult. I too is a non-mechanic, but capable of doing this type of work. You are expecting to: Jack up the front end of car, remove exhaust line, take front wheels, wheel, hub, rotor, half shaft, then disconnect the shifter, support the engine using a hoist from top, slide transmission jack to support the tranny, remove transmission bolts and lower the transmission. installation is reverse.



    Takes about 10 hours for DIY mechanic. No special tools are used, but helps to have air compressor and impact wrench for removing suspension components. Also need engine lifter and transmission jack.



    Personally, I would try to fix that transmission leak, add more tranny fluid and see if I can make the car move.Can anyone tell me how hard to change an auto transmission of a 2000 altima?
    take this to the local nissan dealer for an estimate, if it is too high for you consider getting a new car. you could try a couple of mechanic shops but usually these dudes try to rip you.Can anyone tell me how hard to change an auto transmission of a 2000 altima?
    you might want to consider getting a new car.
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  • 75000 mile maintenance on lexus?

    I have a lexus ES 330, with 75500 miles on it. How easy is it to change/flush the coolant/antifreeze, fuel injection, power steering, brake, and transmission fluids? Thanks!75000 mile maintenance on lexus?
    Coolant - there's a stopcock on the bottom of the radiator to drain the coolant. Make sure to open the top of the radiator when you do this and do it when the engine is cold. It's not difficult.



    Flushing the cooling system is easy, but time consuming. After you drain the coolant, replace it with water, drive around for 15 minutes to bring the engine to operating temp, let it cool, then drain it again. Then add a flush chemical (Prestone makes a good one) and follow the directions on the bottle. Drive another 15 minutes, let it cool, drain it, add water to rinse out the flush, drive 15 minutes again, let it cool, drain it one last time, then add your coolant. Add the flush, water and coolant directly to the radiator, not the overflow bottle. Make sure to dispose of the used coolant, flush and rinsates according to local regulations. You can't just dump it on the ground or pour it down the sewer or sink.



    Fuel injection - there's no need to drain or flush anything here. It gets flushed with new gas every time you drive. You could add a fuel injector cleaner to your gas tank. I do this every 10, 000 miles or so. Valvoline and Chevron make good ones. Follow instructions on the bottle.



    Brake fluid - unless you are having brake problems, leave it alone.



    Power steering fluid - you shouldn't need to change this either, unless you're having problems with the power steering pump.



    Transmission fluid - not too difficult in theory, but getting under the car and not spilling the fluid everywhere makes this a tough job. Unlike on the manual transmissions, there's not just a simple drain plug. You have to remove a cover plate and catch the draining oil, usually on your arms, shirt, pants and garage floor.



    As far as materials are concerned, Genuine Toyota (or Genuine Lexus - same thing) coolant and transmission fluid is basically the same stuff as you can get at Kragen/Checker/Schucks with a bigger price tag. If you do the coolant flush and completely remove the old coolant, you can put in any ethylene glycol or propylene glycol based coolant.75000 mile maintenance on lexus?
    It's not so hard, just time consuming. Make sure that you are using only genuine Lexus fluids for all this work, otherwise you are wasting your time. Do not use fluids coming from parts stores, or anything stating that it is %26quot;compatible with%26quot;. Most higher end luxury automatics have drain plugs in their torque converters. Ask at your dealerships parts department before you attempt anything on your own. Cars with anti-lock brakes usually have a special sequence or procedure to change brake fluid so as not to upset the balance in the system. This must be done every 2 years, before the brake fluid begins to be corrupted by ambient outside air. Power steering fluid change is easiest, just open up a hosw and let system bleed out, supply with fresh fluid. Do this 2,3,4 times until you are sure system is 100% new. Be sure to use fluids coming from containers with the Lexus name on them. You are asking for big trouble later on if you don%26quot;t!!! Trust me.

    Wednesday, September 14, 2011

    Vibrating brakes a warning sign?

    Hi, I'm driving a 2002 Mazda Protege 5. For the last few days, there is is a somewhat loud vibration coming from my brakes when I first press down on the pedal, but it goes away once it's pressed a little more firmly. I've noticed slight wear in the brakes overall so I'm guessing it's the car warning me to get ready to change the pads? I don't think I need to do a whole brake job, since it's not a very old car and it was pretty well maintained. Also, my handbrake light refuses to go off. For this, I'm guessing brake fluid or I have to get it tightened?, since it only works when cranked all the way back. I use my handbrake all the time and I know how costly it is to fix if the thing snaps.Vibrating brakes a warning sign?
    sean, if your brakes are vibrating then you will need to get them re-surfaced and check the pads and calipers. they can be the cause of the vib. but there are more causes than that. the other s can be, brake dust trapped under the pad or loose caliper bolts.Vibrating brakes a warning sign?
    You could have warped rotors. I've had the same problem a few times.Vibrating brakes a warning sign?
    I'd bet the rotors are warped. If they're the original rotors (and based on the age of your car, they might be), I'd bet my house on it. This happens over time as the rotors get thinner and thinner, and as a result, they can wear unevenly or be more prone to warping because of heat. Worn pads can warp the rotors also.



    Bottom line: You're looking at a full brake job, with new rotors and pads. The calipers are probably OK, but don't wait until you hear grinding or squeaking -- have it checked out and repaired very soon.Vibrating brakes a warning sign?
    warped rotors is probably the most common cause of vibration but on a newer car you may want to have the anti lock checked out as well just to be safeVibrating brakes a warning sign?
    Change your brakes first and then check your rotors, if your rotor are bad or warped, they will cause your brakes to wear quickly.

    Replacing speedometer cable/excess transmission fluid in 1965 mustang?

    i pulled and smelled the tranny dip stick on a 65 stang i just bought. had driven the car and it seemed to work ok and the fluid smelled good. driving back home the odometer cable broke. i discovered that the transmission was overfilled (about two and one half inches above the full mark). it still seemed to work properly, except there is no noticable change when it shifts into high gear, but dosen't seem to be straining like its still gear in second. what is the procedure for replacing the cable and can i remove some of the excess fluid without dropping the pan? could the seller have had a motive (?) for overfilling it. also the brake pedal is very hard to mash but the brakes are good, any problems there? Thanks in advance, its a beaut but i am a not that familuar with mechanics and can use all the help i can get. how do i tell what model tranny it is? its a 289ci 2brl coupeReplacing speedometer cable/excess transmission fluid in 1965 mustang?
    You could simply lossen the pan bolts and allow some fluid to drain. But I would suggest letting it all come out and changing the transmission filter, pan gasket, and fluid. Unless someone has changed things you car does not have power brakes, that would account for the heavy pedal. Again if things are OE the car has a C4. The transmission was more than likely filled when the car was not running and cold.

    Have to bleed my brakes?

    im bleeding my brakes because my caliper went out so im replacing both. i got them both off and im putting new ones on. my problem is how do i bleed them since i have the lines disconnected or do i have to do all of them. i want to change the fluid cause its black. so how do i get this doneHave to bleed my brakes?
    VERY EASY!!! REPLACE YOUR CALIPERS THAT ARE NEEDED. THEN LEAVE THE LINES DISCONNECTED. LET GRAVITY PULL ALL THE OLD FLUID OUT. FILL RESERVOIR WITH NEW FLUID AND LET IT RUN OUT AGAIN UNTIL CLEAR FLUID COMES OUT. THEN TIGHTEN ALL THE LINES. NOW YOU MUST BLEED YOUR BRAKE LINES ANYTIME ONE LINE IS DISCONNECTED ALL MUST BE BLED. YOU WANT TO START AT THE CALIPER THAT IS FURTHEST AWAY FROM THE RESERVOIR USUALLY THE RIGHT REAR ONCE THAT ONE IS BLED THEN YOU WANT TO WORK ON THE NEXT ONE CLOSER TO THE RESERVOIR USUALLY THE LEFT REAR WORK YOUR WAY TILL YOU ARE DONE. YOUR CAR DOES NOT HAVE TO BE ON REMEMBER TO CHECK THE RESERVOIR WHILE BLEEDING MAKING SURE THAT IT DOES NOT RUN TO LOW WHERE THE SYSTEM ENDS UP GETTING AIR AGAINHave to bleed my brakes?
    Just put everything back together and then you loosen up the bleeder screw and go through the bleeding process starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder which is the rear passenger side. Just keeping pumping the brakes until the fluid that comes out is new then move to the next closest and so on.Have to bleed my brakes?
    First why did you disconect the lines.you don.t have to.go to popular mechanics web site ,there is a link that will show you how to do it.

    next time buy a c clamp. to push in the piston. and drop the new pads in .Easy takes about 15 min a wheel. I've done it many time from chevies dodges,toyota,Even my 01 durango, took only 45 min for both sides,

    Can I get help with my 1994 Integra LS?

    Well, I bought this car used from someone. It had 158xxx miles, and it still has that amount. Recently, I warped my rotors I guess, and now I have to replace that.



    Also, because I drove for a minute or so with the E-brake on, my car has irregular pulses when I am at a red light. The ABS light is on. And it feels like my car drags now. It revved like a beast before, but not anymore.



    Lastly, I'm not very sure how long ago the previous owner had the transmission fluid changed, but my reverse gear, especially in the first start of the car of the day, thumps violently, then is ok. Drive is ok, park is ok.



    Do I have potentially serious engine problems that should tell me that I should just buy another used car?



    I'm a total beginner, so I have no clue what to do. It's my first car, and it's so unfortunate...Can I get help with my 1994 Integra LS?
    The irregular pulses would have nothing to do with the emergency brake.

    If the ABS light it on, you can have it checked at a dealer for what ABS code it is giving, but because you said it feels like it drags, you should check to see if any of your brakes are locked up.

    As per the transmission, when putting it into reverse it usually is a bit rough, but nothing back breaking. If yours is doing this, it could be the torque converter.Can I get help with my 1994 Integra LS?
    It's hard to say without knowing what you have in the car, or what you would want for it. I would consider selling it as is, telling the potential buyer that it needs brake pads and rotors turned. They will see the ABS light on. They make some very good trans additive, like Z-MAX that does wonders. At best I would try to find a friend who can replace the brake pads and ad the additive, and drive it.Can I get help with my 1994 Integra LS?
    My son has a 1993 with 235,000 and it still runs great.The irregular pulses sound like a vacuum leak. His ABS light has been on for 4 years.The thump sounds like a worn motor mount, it does it more with the first start because the engine is idling faster when it's cold.

    Nothing you said seems like it's going to cost much to fix. I would get it checked before i got rid of it.They were rated the best car from 1991 to about 97 . Good luck.Can I get help with my 1994 Integra LS?
    you can change the rotors and stuff your self if you have the tools and time

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections/art

    the transmission is a common issue for older cars, my integra did the same thing for a while. the ABS unit your gonna have to get the code pulled and then deal with that from there

    you dont need a new car, integra's are awsome =]
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  • About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?

    I'm thinking about buying my uncles crown vic. for $800 everything works fine and he has never had any major problems with it. But it has 340K miles on it. It has been garage kept and oil changed every month, and all other routine maintance done on time. Also has new tires, fluids, and brake pads. How much longer do you think it will last? and How much would it cost to have engine rebuilt?About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?
    Put a used rebuil engine in instead of rebuilding. It will be cheaper. About 1500.00 if you find engine for 5-800 dollars.About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?
    What year is it? Is it a modular motor or a tried and true 302? These details would help greatly.About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?
    run it till it quits then buy a factory rebuilt one and swap it....way better and cheaper.About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?
    1500-2500, depending on if you go rebuild + labor, or if you go crate drop in. Lot of dependance on the year of the vehicle though.About how much would it cost to have a v8 crown vic. engine rebuilt with labor and everything?
    i would buy a crate ready to drop in engine. with that many miles on the old one it will cost a lot to rebuild it. call around your area and get some prices for the install.you can save some money buying the engine your self. also you need to decide if you need to have the trans. rebuilt. with that amount of miles it would be a good idea. good luck .

    How should i prepare my car in long trip?

    i drive a nissan maxima 2005 it has 141.000 miles on it and i planning to go to texas from massachusetts. i dont know if my car can make it its like 3000 miles

    i just had a oil changed, transmission fluid changed and coolant flush like last week replaced drive belt last month and the only problem with my car is it seems lost power, i watch the rpm all the time i feel something weird about it like when i go 40 mph and i release the gas pedal and the rpm drop below 1000 then it go back to normal and samething happen when i hit the brake it seem loss power or something and sometimes at 40mph the rpm at 1000 and i hit the brake it go up a liltle bit then it back to normal.How should i prepare my car in long trip?
    Your car does not really have a lot of mileage on it, and it should be fine for the trip. You will get more help with this if you post it in Cars and Transportation, but a couple of things you should check are tires, brakes, and wiper blades. And tell a mechanic what you have told us so that your car can have a good check over before you leave.How should i prepare my car in long trip?
    This really ought to be posted in the Cars %26amp; Transportation / Maintenance %26amp; Repairs section for more qualified assistance.

    How should i prepare my car in long trip?

    i drive a nissan maxima 2005 it has 141.000 miles on it and i planning to go to texas from massachusetts. i dont know if my car can make it its like 3000 miles

    i just had a oil changed, transmission fluid changed and coolant flush like last week replaced drive belt last month and the only problem with my car is it seems lost power, i watch the rpm all the time i feel something weird about it like when i go 40 mph and i release the gas pedal and the rpm drop below 1000 then it go back to normal and samething happen when i hit the brake it seem loss power or something and sometimes at 40mph the rpm at 1000 and i hit the brake it go up a liltle bit then it back to normal and i just dont feel good about it it makes me worry the engine rpm getting tired or something.



    Please help meHow should i prepare my car in long trip?
    speed sensor or transmission but its a goHow should i prepare my car in long trip?
    I recommend a fresh oil change, check your tire air pressure. full tank of gas. be sure the windshield wipers are working properly. Also be sure to have a map/ atlas/gps on board just in case. Also the problem with power might be the fuel pump and/or spark plugs. Good luck! Be safe.

    Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?

    I have a 2000 mercury cougar v6 2.5L. I took it to firestone and they said i need to change the rotors in the front and rear rotors pitted ans roasted, brake fluid flush...those were the notes he wrote .for my car and he said itll cost 862$!!! i was like wo ill see if i ca find it cheaper somewhere else. but cant i order the parts and pay som1 to do it myselfCar Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    Cars are a constant money pit. You're either making payments or paying for repairs. You're 9 years from your car's production date, and if this is the first time you've replaced rotors, you're doing well.



    If you don't have the money for rotors, ask if they're warped, or only scored. If they're only scored, you can either have them surfaced, or just slam in some brake pads knowing they'll wear prematurely (you'll get about half the life out of them). When I was a young man, I ran rotors regardless of how scored they were, I had better things to do with my non-union factory worker paycheck.



    Having them resurfaced is best, but some rotors are only surface hardened, and the specs are so limited, they almost never can be resurfaced.



    If you're going to do it yourself, find out before you take it apart if any special tools are required, or if there's anything peculiar about your particular car that you should know.



    I don't currently own a car with disc brakes, and back when I did they were pretty straightforward, but my son in law just spend a small fortune on new calipers because he tried to push the pistons back in the usual way with a C-clamp, but there was a high-tech limiter because of the anti-lock brakes and unless the piston was turned before it was pushed, it damaged the mechanism. So be careful.



    As far as changing the brake fluid, it depends on how long you intend to keep the car. Years ago I thought I was the only guy in the world who actually changed brake fluid every presidential election (once every 4 years). Brake fluid absorbs water out of the atmosphere, and over time, the wheel cylinders or calipers will begin to corrode from the inside out. Wheel cylinders leak before they seize, but calipers seize before they leak, which is probably why your mechanic advised you to change it out.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    wow, the rotors for that car are about 60-80 per, for that car, the rest is labor fee.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    That's sounds about twice the price I think.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    What was the original problem with your car that caused you to take it to a shop?



    Try taking it to a Mercury dealer and see what they think needs fixing, and what they charge, and compare.



    I don't trust those tire and brake shops. They tend to be dishonest.

    Dealers with factory certification are more trustworthy. Try the Mercury web site to locate a dealer.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    you can buy the rotors for about 60 to 80 bucks pay 5 to 10 to have them re-surface and install your self if you know how .. as far as brake fluid flush that's just a waste .. i've own vehi for about 15 years never did a flush and never had a problem ..Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    Yes,you can do it your self.Get another opinion from another mechanic before you spend any money.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    I agree to not let them to the work that is way too much for a simple brake job. I would find or ask someone you know that is a mechanic and have them help you do the brake job. as for the flush I would only change it if the fluid is dark brown or black. If you do need a flush it only takes about 15-20 minutes to flush the whole system.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
    Your local parts store can hook you up with the correct parts. You will need to know if you car has anti-lock brakes, and what engine and trans it has. They can also sell you a repair manual for your specific car, which will help you to fix it yourself. You might also ask some friends or co-workers, if they know how to do it. You might get it done real cheap if a friend can do it. I would not waste money on the flush, unless there is metal shavings visible in the master cylinder.

    Brakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?

    ok so i changed the front passenger brake line to the caliper because there was a hole in it. we put fluid back in the master cylinder and went to bleed brakes but they are not building up any pressure. originally when i knew i had to change the line it happened in a second because one second i had perfect brakes then the next i had none, so i am not sure how i got a hole in my brake line. just wondering why it wouldnt be building up any pressure and what i can do for it? thank you!Brakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?
    It's because it is a cavalier. Sell that thing for 100 and move on.Brakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?
    try bleeding the brakes again, sounds like air in the system. bleed in this order RR LR RF LF, make sure master cyclinderis full.Brakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?
    its going to take a little bit to get all the air out because of the abs system just keep it upBrakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?
    KEEP BLEEDING THEM,YOU HAVE AIR IN THE LINES SOME WHERE,MAKE SURE THE RES.IS FULL AND NOT RUNNING DRY WHILE YOUR BLEEDING THEM,SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO BLEED THEM AT THE MASTER CYL.FIRST THEN AT THE LINES,AT THE MASTER CYL. BECAUSE YOU CAN GET AIR IN THE PAPOTRTIONING VALVE,AND MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE TOP ON THE MASTER CYL. WHILE YOU BLEED THE BRAKES,BLEED ALL 4 WHEELS, YOU'LL BE SUPRIZED HOW MUCH AIR CAN GET INTO THE LINES AND HOW LITTLE AIR CAN CAUSE SUCH A PROBLEMBrakes on 05cavalier soft please help!!?
    i had the same problem with air and abs i bleed and bleed the brakes i ended up calling dealership and asking them they say with abs brakes sometimes u will have to vaccum bleed them i took it to them and they come back good as new
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  • 1999 Park Ave ultra brake issue?

    so when i turn the car on, warm or cold doesn't matter. it feels like the brakes are engaged but are not and like makes a normal braking noise when u apply them normally, someone told me its either the ABS modular or the calipers, someone else told me its the trans but i pulled the fuse to the ABS modular and it doesn't do it at all. so I'm guessing its the modular. but not sure. I bled the brakes and flushed all the nasty fluid out and its all clear. so I'm sure its not the calipers. was wondering how hard is it to change out the ABS modular? do i need special tools to take anything off? or just normal wrenches and sockets to take it out? and if i do that, how would i go about setting it back up? like bleed the system again? or would that not work? very confused maybe someone can let me know. thanks in advanced!1999 Park Ave ultra brake issue?
    I've gone to the junk yard and pulled an ABS off another vehicle and changed it out with no special tools. I can't believe this is the ABS. I feel its about your brakes. You may have bled the old fluid out but you can't tell me whether they were sticking or not. You can't tell me what's inside your caliper. Calipers are cheap.



    You should be able to plug your obdII sensor in and find a code if the light is coming on. The code might direct you where to go.1999 Park Ave ultra brake issue?
    First check sensors. They might got dirty or damaged somehow and thus not giving right signal about wheels' rotation. Also check cables going from sensors. Then, mess with other ABS parts.

    Need some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?

    YOU DON'T HAVE TO READ WHOLE THING you can just go to bottom and tell me what i should do but nothing stupid like blowing up the place or something. i feel like i have been done wrong and that they are just trying to get some extra money because they are probobly going bankrupt and need some quick money so that they dont go out of business but i dont know its a crystler jeep dodge company









    ok well i took my car up to dallas dodge (running great) for an oil change and transmission fluid change, and to check why the engine light is on and see what is wrong with brakes.



    ok so they had the car for a week

    we call and they say that we need a brand new engine harness, new fuel pump, new wiring, and our car wont start



    the thing is when we gave the car to them it ran perfectly just the engine light was on.

    now i really think that they broke all that stuff trying to find the engine problem.





    At first they said that it was a wiring problem they fix that and then the whole car breaks down?????? doesn't make sense

    then they were fixing that and they say that the car needs a new engine harness from a wreck (there is a small dent near the front wheel where they said the engine harness is) but even if it is right there a very very very very small dent wont shatter a engine harness so i think that they broke it. and the fuel pump, they say that it wont work anymore that there is no gas going to the engine. the thing is we drove it for a long time and nothing ever went wrong. they were gonna charge about 4000 to get all that stuff fixed



    So now they are saying that they put it all together and we got into an argument. and they fixed some dead wires cause they thought that they were the problem with the engine light, they said it will cost about six hundred so they went ahead and fixed it without our ok on it. then the whole breaking down talked about above started happening.



    today they called me back and said that the car is all put back together the total is 289.57 and that our gas gauge is broken it says we have half a tank of gas but the gas tank is empty. also we had to bang on the gas tank to get the car started.



    Now tell me how does it go from 600 after they fix the wiring to 289.57 after they are completely done something is not right





    I feel like i have been done wrong and i dont know what i should do any help?

    i will take all comments to considerationNeed some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
    all you can do is cut your losses like every other sad and troubled neon owner does..

    How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?

    My braking power suddenly lost alot of effectiveness, as the front left brake seems to have stopped working. The pedal now goes almost all the way to the floor with almost no resistance before it brakes. I checked the fluid level and the left side of the fluid container is empty.

    Therefore, i'm assuming the left brake line is busted somewhere. I have three major questions.

    First, how would I go about finding the source of the leak, or where is it most likely to be?

    Second, how involved is replacing the line? Is it something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop (in which case how expensive would it be) I've changed my pads and rotors myself, and have replaced a radiator with little trouble, so how involved would this be in comparison?

    Finally, the fluid container seems to have a split down the middle, one side for the right brake and one for the left. How would I add fluid to only the left side, or would I have to bleed both sides?How involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?
    you should recheck where you did the brake work and see if a line is on wrong and second the master cylinder on all cars is front and back not left and right the big side is front and the small is back if you put soe fluid in it and hit your brakes you should be able to see where its coming outHow involved is replacing a brake line in an 89 maxima?
    1st, fill it up and hit the brake and have some look and see where the leak is coming from. 2nd, if it,s just a line, go to auto zone or advance and get a piece of brake line and 2 compresson fittings and cut the bad part out and add the new line. last but not least, you need to pick up another container from the junk yard and fill it. you should bleed all 4 wheels to be on the safe side starting with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder first.

    How much you think i can sell my 99 civic ex sedan for?

    SUPER RARE TO FIND



    99 civic ex 4 dr



    5spd



    clean title



    137k miles only



    viper 5900 sst 1 mile range remote start alarm w/ heat sensor



    jdm black housing headlights



    jdm red/white back lights



    jdm yellow foglights



    jdm window visor



    mugen front lip



    type r rear lip



    si oem 2 piece grill



    WICKED front/rear aftermarket camber kits



    99 integra front/back brake disc conversion



    brand new 16%26quot; red rota gt3s with brand new tires



    custom lug nuts with key



    car just got alignment done



    most fluids has been flushed and changed (mobil 1 oil 5w-30, fram oil filter, brake fluid oem, power steering oem, transmission with honda oem fluid)



    nrg iridium plugs and 10mm wires



    gsr shifter



    gsr red number shift knob



    upgraded sound system, just mids and highs



    pioneer mp3 stereo







    minor problems is dents and dings. the driver mirror doesn't work. broken passenger sun visor clip. but all this was problems by the first owner. i just never had the time to get around to fixing it.



    http://s544.photobucket.com/albums/hh333How much you think i can sell my 99 civic ex sedan for?
    i hate to say it because i like your car.

    but about 6000-6500.



    lots of people upgrade there cars and spend alot and cant sell for as much as they dumped into it. i have a 99 civic which i bought for about 4500 dollars. and similar ones go for about 3500 now.



    but i found this similar one its 9,000 dollars but its also b18c and rhd sedan in the la/riverside area.

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto

    i bet his car cost more than 9000 parts and labor and he is at a loss.How much you think i can sell my 99 civic ex sedan for?
    not much cause almost everybody has that style civic from 92-00 everywhere I look I see one so if your lucky the most you can get is $2000How much you think i can sell my 99 civic ex sedan for?
    Anybody can build up a car bro, but nice ride nonetheless. But as you probably know modding a car lowers its valuer. I'd say you might get away listing it as 5 grand and get talked down to 45 if you sell it on the street, counting, craigslist, recycler, etc.



    I did a search on cars.com for your car in my area, near Los Angeles California. Here's the link:



    http://www.cars.com/go/search/search_res

    Toyota corolla 2000 tune up?

    I want to have tune up done to my Corolla.I want to change spark plugs,serpentine belt,gasket,engine oil,transmission fluid,coolant fluid,brake fluid refreshened,steering fluid refreshened,wires.How much would it cost??any suggestion?Toyota corolla 2000 tune up?
    in modern cars :



    engine tune up ( oil, sparks, gasket ) = around $150 - $170



    transsmision ( oil, filter ) = $90 - $120



    other fluids not more than $60



    wish this could help !!!
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  • What Are The Recommended Repairs For A 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R?

    I have just purchased a 2006 Kawasaki ZX6R. As i was driving home i realized that the FI (fuel injector) light was on. Then i went to open the gas tank and it was really hard to get open. Once i got it open the cap was full of white residue like chalk almost with a gas smell. I'm thinking that it was sitting with fuel in it for a while. Can this be the reason why the FI light is on? Also how can I fix this issue? Next i found that the front brake felt pretty soft. Then i looked at the resevior and it was missing fluid. Can this be the reason for the brake feeling soft? (soft as in, I need to pull it in harder to get a good brake). The bike is about to turn 10,000 miles soon. Besides having those issues above taken care of, what would you recommend? Full tune-up? (what would a full motorcycle tune up include) Also a new chain/sprocket? I don't have the original manuals (since the owner didnt provide them). If you can please tell me what you guys think i should do to the bike. So far i'm thinking:



    *Clean Gas Tank

    *Fuel Injector Cleaner (hopefully i wouldnt need to replace)

    *New front tire

    *New Chain/Sprocket

    *All oil/fluid changes

    *Possibly a tune-up (not sure at what mileage a bike requires this?)



    Anyone who can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.What Are The Recommended Repairs For A 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R?
    Every thing you've listed is exactly what I would recommend.You'll have to take it to the dealer and have it scanned fo the FI light.A tune up should include plugs air filter and oil change.It should also have a full chassis service Which includes Fork oil,brake fluids,Wheel bearing repack and swing arm and rear shock pivots greased.It sounds like this bike has been parked for a long time so I would replace both tires as tires tend to harden from time and even though they have lots of tread left they don't stick worth cht and you won't find out until you hit a hard turnand the tire slides out from under you ***.What Are The Recommended Repairs For A 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R?
    Everything listed as bob said, but if you have a FI light on, theres an internal injector problem (probably clogged from varnished old gas), and if they are unable to clean the injector it may need to be replaced, and you may not be running on all 4 cyliders either, which is VERY bad for a sportbike. You might consider not riding it until you service the injector. Also check those brakes. If you're missing fluid, you may have a leak somewhere. If the leak is anywhere near the caliper, you risk riding with brake fluid on the front rotors and not being able to stop the bike, if it drips, or squirts fluid on them. Brakes are the one thing on a bike you CAN NOT slack on fixing. No brakes, or faulty brakes can get you killed quick, and are the most important part of a running bike, so address them immediately! Be sure to check the fork seals for leaks as well if its been sitting, they may have dried out and disintegrated too, and they can leak on the front brakes as well, so if you see oil on the lower tubes, the seals will need replacing on those as well.What Are The Recommended Repairs For A 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R?
    The ONLY things that need repair are the ones that are broken.

    '90 Cadillac DeVille tranny problem? Safe to add fluid if needed?

    I have a '90 Cadillac DeVille, pulling away from a stoplight last night the engine started revving %26amp; would not slow down even with brakes, as if brakes not working. Approaching next light, had to throw into park to avoid hitting car! (Not good!) Still racing, shut off %26amp; restarted, still racing. Repeated 5x, then normal. Going into next gear, start revving again, slowed down, it was fine. Transmission? Only had car 3 mos, don't know when last tranny work/check done. Told at last oil change DON'T add tranny fluid until tranny checked out - could do damage. True? Don't want to hit someone because my car won't stop %26amp; don't want to tear up tranny by throwing into park again. How much for tranny work? Very limited funds. What to do? Please help!%26039;90 Cadillac DeVille tranny problem? Safe to add fluid if needed?
    No, that is a throttle issue if the engine was racing. Check the linkage, if it is good, a good bet is you need an Idle Air Control motor. It sounds like it may be sticking. I would not drive it until you fix it if possible, because you could get in a very bad accident, espicially if it is racing!%26039;90 Cadillac DeVille tranny problem? Safe to add fluid if needed?
    Sounds like a stuck throttle body. There's a spray cleaner for it, and / or gas addittives for it. Stop by the auto parts store and ask the counter guy.%26039;90 Cadillac DeVille tranny problem? Safe to add fluid if needed?
    your having a throttle body problem,,or the linkage is sticking on it,,this one has a cable that operates the throttle body,,you need to clean it off ,and put some penetrating oil on it so it will work easier ,,i own a repair shop,,and have seen a few cars that stick,it can be dangerous to drive like that,you need to fix it,,or have it fixed,,good luck i hope this help,s.