i spilled milk on my keyboard awhile back, and some of the keys still dont work.
Today i took it out and soaked it in warm water with soap.
That didn't change a thing. So im thinking if i take the keys off and get to the main circuit i could gently clean it with something.
But what could i use?
I heard that brake fluid works but im not sure.
Any ideas?How to clean laptop keyboard circuits?
Definitely not brake fluid. Try wetting a cloth with just plain water, but make sure the cloth is only slightly damp when you use it on your keyboard. Make sure your laptop is turned off, unplugged, and take the battery out for good measure.
Be careful popping out the keys. I had to pop out the space bar on a Toshiba laptop and it was impossible to get it back on correctly.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
How do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
so its my first bike and i just was wondering where the oil filter went and if i had to drain the oil like a car also what type of oil do you recommend to use , another concern is how to check the other fluids (e.i. transmission, brake, ect) if you know of a website where i can find a manual for my bike. again it is a 1300cc VTX retro by hondaHow do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
I'm surprised they didn't give you an owners manual when you bought the bike .If this bike is Brand New then I would recommend taking it in for its first 600 mile oil change, Cost is around 200 Bucks and they do it right and check every thing . Each time you take it in it gets cheaper plus its easier to keep records of whats been done when and where .Some guys like to do it themselves to save a buck /my manual says there are 2 oil drain bolts located on the right side underneath close to the muffler. engine oil filter is located just a few inches back , Check out VTX Owners Club on the web and Join, it cost nothing and lots of links to direct you in the right direction ,Ask a question and you will have 30 answers from 30 VTX owners that all know that we got the best and baddest Bike in town ( I have the 1800 and 1300 R)How do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
PLEASE REFER TO YOUR OWNERS MANUEL WWW.POWERSPORTS.HONDA.COMHow do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
I'm surprised they didn't give you an owners manual when you bought the bike .If this bike is Brand New then I would recommend taking it in for its first 600 mile oil change, Cost is around 200 Bucks and they do it right and check every thing . Each time you take it in it gets cheaper plus its easier to keep records of whats been done when and where .Some guys like to do it themselves to save a buck /my manual says there are 2 oil drain bolts located on the right side underneath close to the muffler. engine oil filter is located just a few inches back , Check out VTX Owners Club on the web and Join, it cost nothing and lots of links to direct you in the right direction ,Ask a question and you will have 30 answers from 30 VTX owners that all know that we got the best and baddest Bike in town ( I have the 1800 and 1300 R)How do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
PLEASE REFER TO YOUR OWNERS MANUEL WWW.POWERSPORTS.HONDA.COMHow do i change my oil filter on my 1300 vtx honda (thats a cruiser just in case)?
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
2000 honda civic brake leak?
Ok so last week my brake light went on and so I figured out I needed to add brake fluid. So today when I was leaving a started my car and the brake light was on again so I popped the hood to check the fluid and I noticed a big puddle near the front passanger tire. I added the fluid and had no choice but to drive and pray that I would make it safe. What could be the problem, someone told me I might just need to change the disc, how exspensive is that?2000 honda civic brake leak?
The disc isn't involved. Probably a loose fitting or a cracked hose up front, fairly normal. Now, if it is a cracked hose, get both of them replaced.2000 honda civic brake leak?
good news is this is an easy fix . bad news is it needs to be done by a profesional . sounds like you have a leaky caliper . if that is the case you will need to replace the caliper and go ahead and change the front brake pads while you are at it .2000 honda civic brake leak?
it,s not the rotors, the rotors don,t leak but a broken hose, caliper or broken line will. it,s probably the hose going to the caliper has a hole in it.Changing bed sheets travel alone with
The disc isn't involved. Probably a loose fitting or a cracked hose up front, fairly normal. Now, if it is a cracked hose, get both of them replaced.2000 honda civic brake leak?
good news is this is an easy fix . bad news is it needs to be done by a profesional . sounds like you have a leaky caliper . if that is the case you will need to replace the caliper and go ahead and change the front brake pads while you are at it .2000 honda civic brake leak?
it,s not the rotors, the rotors don,t leak but a broken hose, caliper or broken line will. it,s probably the hose going to the caliper has a hole in it.
Question about 1994 toyota camry?
Dear all,
When I did oil change most recently, the person in the repair shop said that I need change the fluid for transmission sys, brake. Can I do this by meself? If yes, is there any special place I need to pay attention to? Do I need to drain the old fluid out and then for the new one?
By the way, I feel the sound from my car become bigger. So they checked it is the gasket. We need to replace it. Any of you has similar experience. Any idea on how much will it cost?
Thanks,
ShayneQuestion about 1994 toyota camry?
Draining and Refilling the ATF is not too difficult but make sure you know where %26amp; what under the Camry to loosen in order to drain the ATF and exactly where and How to Refill It. FYI CHANGING THE AUTMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID is recommended every 25,000 to 30,000 miles.
I have only experienced such problems once on 1980 Toyota Corolla Station Wagon that had over 100,000 miles and LEARNED MY LESSONS %26quot;Big Time%26quot; bec FYI overhaul is extremely expensive like $1,500 many years ago and the guarantee warranty is not the best meaning it is not exactly like brand new that I personally know coworkers and family that paid and then ended up trading/selling the vehicle..
If I were in Your Shoes and plan on Doing the Job Yourself then you will also need to buy an oil drain pain, about 3 QTs of Dexron III ATFluid and may I recommend you stop at Lowes Home Improvement and buy the proper 10mm Allen Hex Wrenches to remove the ATF plug as well as a Skinny Funnel %26lt;= how you refill the ATF Fluid.
FYI when I did change the ATF on our 1993 Toyota Camry LE Sedan had 211,00 miles, on all my Toyotas after the reached 100K, I made it a practice/routine to change the ATF Fluid more frequently like every 15,000 miles bec a simple drain %26amp; refill sure beats spending the Big $$$ to do a transmission overhauI...bec for me ATF drain %26amp; refill every 3rd oil change...
Simple Do It Yourself preventive maintenance that will stretch your investment in a Toyota a very long way... It's quite simple with the right tools bec one simply opens the ATF drain plug, then measures how much came out and then refill like 2 to 3 quarts of ATF according to the manufacturer specifications via skinny ATF tube. Also note it is extremely critical not to refill with wrong ATF, otherwise troubles begin and TRANSMISSIONS are expensive to overhaul %26amp; fix and often times never the same that people give up and trade-in as lessons learned experience.
Hope the Above Info Helps %26amp; Best of Luck!Question about 1994 toyota camry?
It is a good idea to have the transmission fluid changed.As far as doing it yourself, you can, but unless you've done it before I wouldn't advise it.You've got to drop the pan on the bottom of the transmission and if you don't tighten all the bolts up equally at the same time,it will leak.The exhaust leak shouldn't cost much you fix and if you know someone locally like a friend of a friend you could probably get them to do it for less than a hundred bucks for everything.Question about 1994 toyota camry?
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU ARE SAYING OR ASKING ,BUT I HAVE A QUESTION.HOW DO YOU FEEL THE SOUND GET BIGGER???????
When I did oil change most recently, the person in the repair shop said that I need change the fluid for transmission sys, brake. Can I do this by meself? If yes, is there any special place I need to pay attention to? Do I need to drain the old fluid out and then for the new one?
By the way, I feel the sound from my car become bigger. So they checked it is the gasket. We need to replace it. Any of you has similar experience. Any idea on how much will it cost?
Thanks,
ShayneQuestion about 1994 toyota camry?
Draining and Refilling the ATF is not too difficult but make sure you know where %26amp; what under the Camry to loosen in order to drain the ATF and exactly where and How to Refill It. FYI CHANGING THE AUTMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID is recommended every 25,000 to 30,000 miles.
I have only experienced such problems once on 1980 Toyota Corolla Station Wagon that had over 100,000 miles and LEARNED MY LESSONS %26quot;Big Time%26quot; bec FYI overhaul is extremely expensive like $1,500 many years ago and the guarantee warranty is not the best meaning it is not exactly like brand new that I personally know coworkers and family that paid and then ended up trading/selling the vehicle..
If I were in Your Shoes and plan on Doing the Job Yourself then you will also need to buy an oil drain pain, about 3 QTs of Dexron III ATFluid and may I recommend you stop at Lowes Home Improvement and buy the proper 10mm Allen Hex Wrenches to remove the ATF plug as well as a Skinny Funnel %26lt;= how you refill the ATF Fluid.
FYI when I did change the ATF on our 1993 Toyota Camry LE Sedan had 211,00 miles, on all my Toyotas after the reached 100K, I made it a practice/routine to change the ATF Fluid more frequently like every 15,000 miles bec a simple drain %26amp; refill sure beats spending the Big $$$ to do a transmission overhauI...bec for me ATF drain %26amp; refill every 3rd oil change...
Simple Do It Yourself preventive maintenance that will stretch your investment in a Toyota a very long way... It's quite simple with the right tools bec one simply opens the ATF drain plug, then measures how much came out and then refill like 2 to 3 quarts of ATF according to the manufacturer specifications via skinny ATF tube. Also note it is extremely critical not to refill with wrong ATF, otherwise troubles begin and TRANSMISSIONS are expensive to overhaul %26amp; fix and often times never the same that people give up and trade-in as lessons learned experience.
Hope the Above Info Helps %26amp; Best of Luck!Question about 1994 toyota camry?
It is a good idea to have the transmission fluid changed.As far as doing it yourself, you can, but unless you've done it before I wouldn't advise it.You've got to drop the pan on the bottom of the transmission and if you don't tighten all the bolts up equally at the same time,it will leak.The exhaust leak shouldn't cost much you fix and if you know someone locally like a friend of a friend you could probably get them to do it for less than a hundred bucks for everything.Question about 1994 toyota camry?
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU ARE SAYING OR ASKING ,BUT I HAVE A QUESTION.HOW DO YOU FEEL THE SOUND GET BIGGER???????
Questions about 1994 toyota camry?
Dear all,
When I did oil change most recently, the person in the repair shop said that I need change the fluid for transmission sys, brake. Can I do this by meself? If yes, is there any special place I need to pay attention to? Do I need to drain the old fluid out and then for the new one?
By the way, I feel the sound from my car become bigger. So they checked it is the gasket. We need to replace it. Any of you has similar experience. Any idea on how much will it cost?
Thanks,
ShayneQuestions about 1994 toyota camry?
-Transmission fluid changed : Go to Toyota dealer buy the right fluid for toyota's transmission (It is DEXRON), a new gasket for transmission pan.
Drain the old fluid out then unbolts and take off the pan, look up to the transmission from bottom you might see the filter, so take it out and use gas or WD-40 clean it ( don't need a new one). When you tighten the pan should tight a little by a little around the bolts until all are tight.
-Now do not change the brake fluid, unless you have one person to help you so he/she must know how to do that and how to bleed the air out the system. This job you have to see from someone does then you will know how.
- Did you mean the smoke come out some where on the way make the sounds become bigger? If yes, Try DIY to vave money.Questions about 1994 toyota camry?
OK-what sound became%26quot;bigger%26quot;?an exhaust leak?A squeel?
and I do not advise exchanging transmission fluid on your own, same with brake fluid. Transmission fluid exchangers replace about 95% of the fluid, whereas draining and refilling the transmission only replaces about 1/4 ofthe fluid. Brake fluid needs to be flushed by first removing all the fluid from the mastercylinder, and topping ti off with new from a sealed can. Then open the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder at the rear, and install a rubber hose. Submerge the hose in a bottle with a small amount of fluid and slowly pump the brakes untill clean fluid is expelled into the bottle. Close the bleeder, then go to the other rear wheel, and repeat at the front of the car. If you let any air into the system, the brakes will fade and cause you problems. Best left to a professional.
When I did oil change most recently, the person in the repair shop said that I need change the fluid for transmission sys, brake. Can I do this by meself? If yes, is there any special place I need to pay attention to? Do I need to drain the old fluid out and then for the new one?
By the way, I feel the sound from my car become bigger. So they checked it is the gasket. We need to replace it. Any of you has similar experience. Any idea on how much will it cost?
Thanks,
ShayneQuestions about 1994 toyota camry?
-Transmission fluid changed : Go to Toyota dealer buy the right fluid for toyota's transmission (It is DEXRON), a new gasket for transmission pan.
Drain the old fluid out then unbolts and take off the pan, look up to the transmission from bottom you might see the filter, so take it out and use gas or WD-40 clean it ( don't need a new one). When you tighten the pan should tight a little by a little around the bolts until all are tight.
-Now do not change the brake fluid, unless you have one person to help you so he/she must know how to do that and how to bleed the air out the system. This job you have to see from someone does then you will know how.
- Did you mean the smoke come out some where on the way make the sounds become bigger? If yes, Try DIY to vave money.Questions about 1994 toyota camry?
OK-what sound became%26quot;bigger%26quot;?an exhaust leak?A squeel?
and I do not advise exchanging transmission fluid on your own, same with brake fluid. Transmission fluid exchangers replace about 95% of the fluid, whereas draining and refilling the transmission only replaces about 1/4 ofthe fluid. Brake fluid needs to be flushed by first removing all the fluid from the mastercylinder, and topping ti off with new from a sealed can. Then open the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder at the rear, and install a rubber hose. Submerge the hose in a bottle with a small amount of fluid and slowly pump the brakes untill clean fluid is expelled into the bottle. Close the bleeder, then go to the other rear wheel, and repeat at the front of the car. If you let any air into the system, the brakes will fade and cause you problems. Best left to a professional.
How badly did I get ripped off?
I left my car in my garage for 5 years without using it. I took it to the mechanic today to get it running again. He charged me $700 for cleaning out the gas tank, replacing the feul pump (with a generic pump, not the name brand pump), cleaning out the fuel lines, and replacing the battery. Also, I will be going tomorrow to another mechanic and spending $300 to replace all the fluids in the car (a 30k which includes coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, oil and the filters). Should I get the fluids changed for this price? The car (Nissan Quest mini van) was in perfect condition when I parked it.How badly did I get ripped off?
there wasn't any reason to replace the fuel pump. If you had put a gasoline additive in to keep the gas at a stable set, everything would've been fine.
Sounds like the guy did good work, but I would question the fuel pump, unless it was very gummed up, some Seafoam or TEchron would've fixed that though.
Next time, sell the car, it's not worth storing it for 5 years, a lot of things can go wrong due to it not being driven... engine oil seals, transmission seals, rust where there shouldn't be..How badly did I get ripped off?
Well, you ripped yourself off by leaving the car for that period.
Those charges seem about right for the amount of work involved.
At least once it's all done it will be better than new!
What mileage was on the car?How badly did I get ripped off?
Shouldn't have paid anything, just fill it up with fresh gas. Theres even an additive you can put in the tank to store it for that long. So I'd say pretty bad. At least it wasn't in the thousands.
there wasn't any reason to replace the fuel pump. If you had put a gasoline additive in to keep the gas at a stable set, everything would've been fine.
Sounds like the guy did good work, but I would question the fuel pump, unless it was very gummed up, some Seafoam or TEchron would've fixed that though.
Next time, sell the car, it's not worth storing it for 5 years, a lot of things can go wrong due to it not being driven... engine oil seals, transmission seals, rust where there shouldn't be..How badly did I get ripped off?
Well, you ripped yourself off by leaving the car for that period.
Those charges seem about right for the amount of work involved.
At least once it's all done it will be better than new!
What mileage was on the car?How badly did I get ripped off?
Shouldn't have paid anything, just fill it up with fresh gas. Theres even an additive you can put in the tank to store it for that long. So I'd say pretty bad. At least it wasn't in the thousands.
I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
Can somebody give me a step by step, idiot's guideish, procedure to change the transmission fluid and filter in my truck? (I know how to work on mechanical things, just not cars and I know there are some odd procedures like putting the parking brake on and putting the automatic shifter in a certain position before I can take off the pan.) By the way the truck is a 4x4 and has an automatic transmission.
Also, is it normal for the tachometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.
Also, Is it normal for the tackometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
The tach will have a different reading in every gear while automatically shifting. This is normal and if this is why you are changing your fluid and think this is a problem think again? it's not a problem
Now if you have other symptoms please describeI have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
get a repair manual
Also, is it normal for the tachometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.
Also, Is it normal for the tackometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
The tach will have a different reading in every gear while automatically shifting. This is normal and if this is why you are changing your fluid and think this is a problem think again? it's not a problem
Now if you have other symptoms please describeI have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
get a repair manual
What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?
I just read the maintenance guide that came with the car for the first time. The guide says to replace the coolant at 100K, then every 50K with Toyota super long-life coolant. My dealer has recommended to replace it at 25K and 50K, and I did that. Did I just mess up my cooling system? How do I know what coolant I have now, and can I switch back to the long-life coolant without problems?
I also had my power steering and brake fluids flushed at 45K, and my transmission flushed at 30K as recommended by my dealer before they even inspected the vehicle. Was this necessary? Other mechanics I asked afterwards never heard of a brake flush done for maintenance. How often should these fluids be changed? The manual doesn't mention specific intervals to changes these. Note that I don't tow anything, and I don't drive in the desert or on dirt roads (I live in New Jersey near New York City). I am used to a more definite schedule to change my fluids in my older, non-Toyota car.What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?
Man...They must love seeing you show up at the service department. You have pretty well gone overboard on the flushes and such. On the good side...your car should last a long time.What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?
This link gives a couple of excellent diagrams of the transmission and coolant labels:
http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?act=Print%26amp;client=printer%26amp;f=22%26amp;t=15029
Good semi-related coolant info:
http://www.yotatech.com/f123/exact-ingredients-toyota-red-coolant-119291/
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/toyota/4656/Toyota-antifreeze
Dealers are after your money. Don't trust them with their nonsense.
Use synthetic oil, change it every 7k instead of their recommended 3k.your first name find teen duvet covers
I also had my power steering and brake fluids flushed at 45K, and my transmission flushed at 30K as recommended by my dealer before they even inspected the vehicle. Was this necessary? Other mechanics I asked afterwards never heard of a brake flush done for maintenance. How often should these fluids be changed? The manual doesn't mention specific intervals to changes these. Note that I don't tow anything, and I don't drive in the desert or on dirt roads (I live in New Jersey near New York City). I am used to a more definite schedule to change my fluids in my older, non-Toyota car.What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?
Man...They must love seeing you show up at the service department. You have pretty well gone overboard on the flushes and such. On the good side...your car should last a long time.What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?
This link gives a couple of excellent diagrams of the transmission and coolant labels:
http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?act=Print%26amp;client=printer%26amp;f=22%26amp;t=15029
Report Abuse
What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?Good semi-related coolant info:
http://www.yotatech.com/f123/exact-ingredients-toyota-red-coolant-119291/
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/toyota/4656/Toyota-antifreeze
Report Abuse
What is the flush intervals for all fluids for my 2004 4-cylinder Camry with 60K?Dealers are after your money. Don't trust them with their nonsense.
Use synthetic oil, change it every 7k instead of their recommended 3k.
Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
I am looking into purchasing a newish (2005-2007) diesel truck. I want to take automotive classes at my local community college and do all my own work to my vehicle. I have been told that no matter how much you know about automobiles, they are very electronic now days and therefore one needs expensive computer equipment to do anything more than a oil, fluid, filter change, or anything else fairly basic.
I am curious what the yahoo community thinks...
Is it reasonable to do all your own work on a semi new car, or even a new car for that matter. Everything from a basic oil change, to replacing brakes, or a master cylinder, or replacing engine mounts and transmissions...maybe even adding chips and more skillful jobs???
Please let me know your thoughts and advice!
Thanks!
-Happy LIs maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
Despite what people say, basic maintenance on a modern car is no more difficult (and often a lot easier) than an old one. Take servicing for instance: you don't have to check/adjust valve clearances, set ignition timing, adjust carbs etc etc. Changing brake or suspension parts is no more difficult than on an older car either.
Obviously, there are areas that need to be left to a dealer if they require special tools or diagnostic equipment. They include : clearing codes after repairing engine management, abs or airbag system, replacing parts that need to be coded to the car (injection pump, some fuel injectors and various other parts).
Block Exemption laws of about 2002 mean that a car manufacturer must make technical information available to independant users. Most makers have a technical website you can subscribe to where you will find all the information required to repair a vehicle.
If your car is still under warranty, it's best not to fix it yourself, as it may invalidate the warranty.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
The electronics in today's motors just make doing adjustments nearly obsolete, otherwise a motor is a motor and there is no difference in repairing them. You may find that sometimes the electronics can try to make adjustments and compensate for a part failure, that may send you in the wrong direction but experience will help you to correct the vehicle. The basics will help you get started and then you can determine if it something you want to pursue.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
i have 1 pickup and a van. i do all the work on them. with the right tools you can do the job yourself. almost all cars now have computers. and with the right code reader. you can fix just about any car out there. the trick is to master the code reader.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
My Father was a Propeller engine Mechanic in the Air Force. The first thing he taught me was that with the proper information anyone can fix anything. Purchase a manual for your vehicle at a parts store. This book, a set of tools, and even a code reader (available rather cheaply at the same store), or have the parts store read the code for you when necessary, ( check engine light on) and you should be able to intelligently handle most problems with your car. Do not let the electronics worry you. These sensors are generally easy to replace when they go out. Biggest thing there is NEVER connect or disconnect one wth the battery conncted. Even a small surge on some of these will ruin them and some of them are expensive.
With the classes and a manual you should be able to tackle most anything that happens short of a major rebuild.
I am curious what the yahoo community thinks...
Is it reasonable to do all your own work on a semi new car, or even a new car for that matter. Everything from a basic oil change, to replacing brakes, or a master cylinder, or replacing engine mounts and transmissions...maybe even adding chips and more skillful jobs???
Please let me know your thoughts and advice!
Thanks!
-Happy LIs maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
Despite what people say, basic maintenance on a modern car is no more difficult (and often a lot easier) than an old one. Take servicing for instance: you don't have to check/adjust valve clearances, set ignition timing, adjust carbs etc etc. Changing brake or suspension parts is no more difficult than on an older car either.
Obviously, there are areas that need to be left to a dealer if they require special tools or diagnostic equipment. They include : clearing codes after repairing engine management, abs or airbag system, replacing parts that need to be coded to the car (injection pump, some fuel injectors and various other parts).
Block Exemption laws of about 2002 mean that a car manufacturer must make technical information available to independant users. Most makers have a technical website you can subscribe to where you will find all the information required to repair a vehicle.
If your car is still under warranty, it's best not to fix it yourself, as it may invalidate the warranty.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
The electronics in today's motors just make doing adjustments nearly obsolete, otherwise a motor is a motor and there is no difference in repairing them. You may find that sometimes the electronics can try to make adjustments and compensate for a part failure, that may send you in the wrong direction but experience will help you to correct the vehicle. The basics will help you get started and then you can determine if it something you want to pursue.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
i have 1 pickup and a van. i do all the work on them. with the right tools you can do the job yourself. almost all cars now have computers. and with the right code reader. you can fix just about any car out there. the trick is to master the code reader.Is maintaining a newer car or truck by yourself practical?
My Father was a Propeller engine Mechanic in the Air Force. The first thing he taught me was that with the proper information anyone can fix anything. Purchase a manual for your vehicle at a parts store. This book, a set of tools, and even a code reader (available rather cheaply at the same store), or have the parts store read the code for you when necessary, ( check engine light on) and you should be able to intelligently handle most problems with your car. Do not let the electronics worry you. These sensors are generally easy to replace when they go out. Biggest thing there is NEVER connect or disconnect one wth the battery conncted. Even a small surge on some of these will ruin them and some of them are expensive.
With the classes and a manual you should be able to tackle most anything that happens short of a major rebuild.
I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
Can somebody give me a step by step, idiot's guideish, procedure to change the transmission fluid and filter in my truck? (I know how to work on mechanical things, just not cars and I know there are some odd procedures like putting the parking brake on and putting the automatic shifter in a certain position before I can take off the pan.) By the way the truck is a 4x4 and has an automatic transmission.
Also, is it normal for the tachometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
There are no real tricks to this. Put it in Park %26amp; block the wheels. You may not even need to jack up the truck. If you do, place jack stands of a suitable weight rating under the frame to hold it up. You don;t want to trust the jack to maintain it's pressure holding up the vehicle.
Your tranny may have a drain plug. Verify by looking at a shop manual (at the library if you don't have one). Drain the fluid while the motor is still warm. Then, remove the bolts around the perimeter of the tranny pan. Be prepared for a bit more fluid to run out.
The filter is right there, and usually is held in with just a washered bolt or two. Some just rest inside without any fastener. Swap the filter. Install a new pan gasket. Bolt it up. Refill.
Keep in mind, this only gets about 1/4 of the fluid out of the entire system. For example, many drain and fills require 4-5 qts of fluid, but there is another 10 qts hiding in the torque converter. If you have alot of miles, please consider a complete flush by a local shop. It's not cheap, but you can find a full transmission service for $125 or so if you shop around.
Also, is it normal for the tachometer to raise up to 2.25 while accelerating to 25mph and then dropping back down to 1.5 when the gearing catches up to the engine.I have two questions about the transmission in my 98 Chevy blazer.?
There are no real tricks to this. Put it in Park %26amp; block the wheels. You may not even need to jack up the truck. If you do, place jack stands of a suitable weight rating under the frame to hold it up. You don;t want to trust the jack to maintain it's pressure holding up the vehicle.
Your tranny may have a drain plug. Verify by looking at a shop manual (at the library if you don't have one). Drain the fluid while the motor is still warm. Then, remove the bolts around the perimeter of the tranny pan. Be prepared for a bit more fluid to run out.
The filter is right there, and usually is held in with just a washered bolt or two. Some just rest inside without any fastener. Swap the filter. Install a new pan gasket. Bolt it up. Refill.
Keep in mind, this only gets about 1/4 of the fluid out of the entire system. For example, many drain and fills require 4-5 qts of fluid, but there is another 10 qts hiding in the torque converter. If you have alot of miles, please consider a complete flush by a local shop. It's not cheap, but you can find a full transmission service for $125 or so if you shop around.
How are people that work in new car dealership auto shops paid? What are flag hours?
Do the Lube Techs have to pay for their own fluids such as oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc. at a dealership, and only get paid something like 3/10 of an hour for each oil change? If only one person comes in for an oil change, they only get paid for the 3/10 of hour for the entire day.How are people that work in new car dealership auto shops paid? What are flag hours?
lube techs are paid hourly, they are not experienced enough to be paid flat rate And no one makes out enough on flat rate pay just changing oil!
The dealership charges the customer for the fluids, the lube tech is only responsible for the labor. If he is smart and not flat rate he will drag his butt and not perform so quickly.How are people that work in new car dealership auto shops paid? What are flag hours?
They don't pay for their own oil, and they get paid hourly to change oil plus per change.
lube techs are paid hourly, they are not experienced enough to be paid flat rate And no one makes out enough on flat rate pay just changing oil!
The dealership charges the customer for the fluids, the lube tech is only responsible for the labor. If he is smart and not flat rate he will drag his butt and not perform so quickly.How are people that work in new car dealership auto shops paid? What are flag hours?
They don't pay for their own oil, and they get paid hourly to change oil plus per change.
Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
hi,
i have a honda CB500s, and whilst driving it the other day, i tried to press the rear brake. it didnt work, and no matter how i pressed the pedal it wouldnt brake. the front did (obviously...).
when i got back, the rear disc was really hot- it scarred my fingers. and the brakes pads are full, but not recently changed. (i.e. they are worn in).
the brake fluid was fine (between upper and lower)
still is.
i just went to have another look and now it brakes fine. i havent ridden it long enough to see if it gets hot though....
what is it!?
thankfull for any suggestions
thanksHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
It's time to rebuild your caliper. It's not tough, just clean and new rubber( 0 rings and dust seal ) be sure to put caliper grease on the piston.
The pain in the butt part is having to bleed the system. I hate bleeding brakes.
With the dust seal and clip off ,pump the brake pedal until the piston comes out, clean, lube and reassemble using a C-clamp to put the piston back in.
If your pads weren't fried before they probably are now after dragging.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
had the bike sat for some time ? sounds like they might have glazed and over heated check to make sure the caliper is moving freelyHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
Sounds like the brake diaphram has gone out, take it to the shop and have them take a look at it. Good LuckHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
I had an old ironhead that did that on the front brake. The piston would lock up from time to time. Not too cool. The caliper needs to be taken off pulled apart for inspected. In my case, the caliper was not salvageable. A rebuild would not do. Hope you're luckier.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
It may be that you are riding with your foot on the brake pedal.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
The piston in the caliper is binding when things get hot. And disk brakes warm up even if you just riding. On bikes this happens allot because they tend to sit allot over a season and corrosion builds up inside the calipers. The saftest/best thing to do is bite the bullit and replace the caliper assembly.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
Sounds like either the fluid return hole in your master cyl is clogged, or there is oxidation behind your caliper's piston seals. If the pads are dragging the rotor will heat up quickly.
Take it in for rebuild.
i have a honda CB500s, and whilst driving it the other day, i tried to press the rear brake. it didnt work, and no matter how i pressed the pedal it wouldnt brake. the front did (obviously...).
when i got back, the rear disc was really hot- it scarred my fingers. and the brakes pads are full, but not recently changed. (i.e. they are worn in).
the brake fluid was fine (between upper and lower)
still is.
i just went to have another look and now it brakes fine. i havent ridden it long enough to see if it gets hot though....
what is it!?
thankfull for any suggestions
thanksHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
It's time to rebuild your caliper. It's not tough, just clean and new rubber( 0 rings and dust seal ) be sure to put caliper grease on the piston.
The pain in the butt part is having to bleed the system. I hate bleeding brakes.
With the dust seal and clip off ,pump the brake pedal until the piston comes out, clean, lube and reassemble using a C-clamp to put the piston back in.
If your pads weren't fried before they probably are now after dragging.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
had the bike sat for some time ? sounds like they might have glazed and over heated check to make sure the caliper is moving freelyHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
Sounds like the brake diaphram has gone out, take it to the shop and have them take a look at it. Good LuckHydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
I had an old ironhead that did that on the front brake. The piston would lock up from time to time. Not too cool. The caliper needs to be taken off pulled apart for inspected. In my case, the caliper was not salvageable. A rebuild would not do. Hope you're luckier.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
It may be that you are riding with your foot on the brake pedal.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
The piston in the caliper is binding when things get hot. And disk brakes warm up even if you just riding. On bikes this happens allot because they tend to sit allot over a season and corrosion builds up inside the calipers. The saftest/best thing to do is bite the bullit and replace the caliper assembly.Hydraulic disc brake motorbike help please!?
Sounds like either the fluid return hole in your master cyl is clogged, or there is oxidation behind your caliper's piston seals. If the pads are dragging the rotor will heat up quickly.
Take it in for rebuild.
How do you change master cylinder on a 1993 Ford Escort?
Will brakes and clutch have to be bled after this? There is no pressure on brake pedal, or at clutch pedal. The master cylinder on car right now is full of fluid, this is why I believe the master cylinder needs to be replaced. Am I right? If so, how do I do this?How do you change master cylinder on a 1993 Ford Escort?
yes the master cylinder is bad.. This is easy to fix. Take the master cylinder off. Get a new one. then you will have to bench bleed the master cylinder to get the air out. Put the master cylinder back on completely and then bleed the brakes and clutch. No problem.How do you change master cylinder on a 1993 Ford Escort?
Well, the master cylinder should have fluid on one side of it. If you have fluid on both sides, then yes, it needs to be replaced. Before any maintenance job you plan to perform yourself, even if you are very good at working with cars, I would recomend a Chiltons or Haynes manual, preferably both. They contain information that you may overlook, and parts of a procedure that you may forget to do, which can end up saving you money because then you won't have to replace parts that you damaged trying to do it the wrong way.white hair hair growth
yes the master cylinder is bad.. This is easy to fix. Take the master cylinder off. Get a new one. then you will have to bench bleed the master cylinder to get the air out. Put the master cylinder back on completely and then bleed the brakes and clutch. No problem.How do you change master cylinder on a 1993 Ford Escort?
Well, the master cylinder should have fluid on one side of it. If you have fluid on both sides, then yes, it needs to be replaced. Before any maintenance job you plan to perform yourself, even if you are very good at working with cars, I would recomend a Chiltons or Haynes manual, preferably both. They contain information that you may overlook, and parts of a procedure that you may forget to do, which can end up saving you money because then you won't have to replace parts that you damaged trying to do it the wrong way.
Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
I need advice on how to put a brake caliper on my car. Basically i was away to change the front pads and noticed it was wearing away more on one side of the wheel than the other, Got told to pump the brakes and clean it all, but i ended up over doing it and the brake burst and ripped the rubber seal. (A bit of a pain as they dont make seals for that car anymore so it need a whole new caliper). So im going to get one from the scrap yard but not sure how to get the air out the chamber where the brake fluid goes. Any ideas?
Also will i get away with only changing the pads on one side and topping up the brake fluid? The locking nut was overtightened, on the drivers side when it had its mot and now wont budge so cant get into the brakes to drain the fluid out the pipes on that side of the car.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Firstly, you can get seal kits for a Fiesta at any car spares %26amp; accessories place. Guaranteed.
The air is bled from brake calipers using the bleed screw on the caliper; if you're unsure, get a Haynes manual. This will give detailed info on caliper stripping, cleaning, rebuilding %26amp; brake bleeding with illustrations.
Finally, ALWAYS change pads as an axle set - both sides MUST be done at the same time.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Do yourself and all us other road users a favour and get it repaired professionally before you cause an accident. Brakes are not something to be messed with, a mistake could mean DEATH to you or someone else. Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Firstly I wouldn't trust a calliper from a scrap yard. Mainly because you don't know if the calliper is working properly and you don't know what transpired to put the vehicle in the scrap yard. Secondly, for tour own safety and of those around you I would change the pads on both sides as will cause uneven breaking which is a mot failure. Thirdly I would get the work done by a competent mechanic or a garage you trust (preferably both) therefore you can be sure the job is done correctly.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
To be honest with you and please don't take this the wrong way. My advice would be if you don't know have to change a brake calliper, don't do it yourself!
Your brakes are the single most important part of your car because with out them you cannot stop.
Ja.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
If you lived near me i'd fix it for 拢20. You supply the parts.
Also will i get away with only changing the pads on one side and topping up the brake fluid? The locking nut was overtightened, on the drivers side when it had its mot and now wont budge so cant get into the brakes to drain the fluid out the pipes on that side of the car.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Firstly, you can get seal kits for a Fiesta at any car spares %26amp; accessories place. Guaranteed.
The air is bled from brake calipers using the bleed screw on the caliper; if you're unsure, get a Haynes manual. This will give detailed info on caliper stripping, cleaning, rebuilding %26amp; brake bleeding with illustrations.
Finally, ALWAYS change pads as an axle set - both sides MUST be done at the same time.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Do yourself and all us other road users a favour and get it repaired professionally before you cause an accident. Brakes are not something to be messed with, a mistake could mean DEATH to you or someone else. Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
Firstly I wouldn't trust a calliper from a scrap yard. Mainly because you don't know if the calliper is working properly and you don't know what transpired to put the vehicle in the scrap yard. Secondly, for tour own safety and of those around you I would change the pads on both sides as will cause uneven breaking which is a mot failure. Thirdly I would get the work done by a competent mechanic or a garage you trust (preferably both) therefore you can be sure the job is done correctly.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
To be honest with you and please don't take this the wrong way. My advice would be if you don't know have to change a brake calliper, don't do it yourself!
Your brakes are the single most important part of your car because with out them you cannot stop.
Ja.Help Putting A New Brake Caliper On A Mk5 Fiesta?
If you lived near me i'd fix it for 拢20. You supply the parts.
How to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
i have motor tourn down to intake but the brake fluid pump is causeing problems cant seem to get it off for some reason please help anything i can use is graetly appreaciatedHow to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
Well first I have a question for you... what the hell is a %26quot;brake fluid pump%26quot;? I am assuming you are referring to the master cylinder? Anyway if you have the engine torn down to the intake to replace the intake manifold gaskets then what exactly are you having a problem with?
My advice is to skip the Haynes %26amp; Chilton's manuals. They are a waste of money. If you want real service manual information then go to alldatadiy.com on the internet %26amp; buy a subscription to your car. But if you are taking off the %26quot;brake fluid pump%26quot; to get to the intake gaskets then you have alot more issues than what we can answer for you here. If you want my advice you will take it to someone who knows what the components on a car are and doesn't tear down the top end of an engine without even a basic knowledge of automotive terms. Just my opinion.How to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
Hit it with a hammer a few times, that'll help.How to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
Read up on a service repair manual at Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc or purchase same
Well first I have a question for you... what the hell is a %26quot;brake fluid pump%26quot;? I am assuming you are referring to the master cylinder? Anyway if you have the engine torn down to the intake to replace the intake manifold gaskets then what exactly are you having a problem with?
My advice is to skip the Haynes %26amp; Chilton's manuals. They are a waste of money. If you want real service manual information then go to alldatadiy.com on the internet %26amp; buy a subscription to your car. But if you are taking off the %26quot;brake fluid pump%26quot; to get to the intake gaskets then you have alot more issues than what we can answer for you here. If you want my advice you will take it to someone who knows what the components on a car are and doesn't tear down the top end of an engine without even a basic knowledge of automotive terms. Just my opinion.How to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
Hit it with a hammer a few times, that'll help.How to change intake gasket on 95 pontiac grand am?
Read up on a service repair manual at Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc or purchase same
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
hopfully there is someone who can help me with this question. I have a 99 chevy malibu, 3.1 v6. I replaced the front brake calipers. When I started to bleed them, I could not get the fluid to pump to the bleeder valve on the caliper with enough pressure to bleed it. The fluid would only come out slowly no matter how hard you pumped the brakes. So I went ahead and hooked the rubber line to the bleeder screw and dropped it into my containor of brake fluid. After pumping the breaks for aprx 10 minues, I had barely even pumped any fluid out at all. Still lot's of air. It just isn't putting enough pressure to the fluid to get it to come out fast enough to get all the air out. The brake pedal never gets any firmer no matter how long you pump it. This holds true for both sides. Before changing the calipers, I had noticed a cpl of times while driving that the pedal seemed to be going down farther than normal. That is why I originally put new brakes and calipers on it.Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Sounds like you probably did the wrong repair, so now you still have the original problem plus some problems that you created your self.
Start from the top by getting all 4 wheels off and inspecting the whole system. I don't remember if a 99 malibu has rear disk or drum, i think drum. The most common reasons for excessive pedal travel, the first being the rear brakes out of adjustment.Adjust rear brakes with the star wheel, you want enough drag to give the drum a good spin and only getting about 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution out of it when you let go of it. The next likely cause of excessive pedal travel is a leak in the system, at this point its most likely the rear wheel cylinders.
If you've now determined the brakes are properly adjusted and you have no hydraulic leaks, open all 4 blead screws and gravity bleed tell you see fluid dripping out all 4. Then close and bleed all the way around starting at wheel farthest away from master and working in order to closest.
You may have been taking alot of air into the sys when you had a leak or durring the repair so bleeding it may be tough, but the gravity bleed first should help.
If you get this far and still have the same problem clamp off all 4 of the rubber brake hoses. Now you should have a hard pedal even if there is still air in the system, if not it should be a bad master(usually a bad master gives you a good pedal right at first then slowly drops.) If the pedals hard hold it down then have an assistant begin removing the clamps on the hoses, again starting furthest from the master and working closer in order. When you remove a clamp at a certain wheel and the pedal drops you just found the leak or the air pocket.
Dude don't over complicate this. Even if its white its not the space shuttle. I'm telling you, do the clamp test its saved my butt many times, and I've showed pro techs how to do it and they were thankfull.
You can buy clamps for brake hoses at most parts stores for probably 20 bucks, in a pinch you can use vice grips witha shop rag wraped around to protect the hoses. Brake Basics 101 start from the farthest point from the master and work your way back towars the master when you remove a clamp and the pedal drops you found the problem.Dont guess. TEST. Do this and get out of the heat.Is my brake master cylinder bad?
That seems odd.
I doubt your master cylinder is bad.
There is a proportioning valve that blocks the flow of brake fluid in the event you have a brake line failier.
Close the bleeders.
Pump up the brakes.
Have SOMEONE ELSE open one of the bleeders WHILE you hold the pedal down.
Repeat this several times and don't let the master cylinder go dry. Otherwise you'll have to start all over.
ADDED:
Adjust your rear brakes too.Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Ok so are you doing this by yourself? This may sound insulting but I gotta ask to be sure I'm giving you the right answer so here goes. You do know that it takes two people to bleed brakes and that you dont pump with the bleeder open right?? If you pump with the bleeder open you just keep sucking more air in when the pedal goes back up. That being said....If you doing it right, your first step is to open all the bleeders for the brakes, front and rear, and let them %26quot;gravity bleed%26quot;. That means just walk away for about half an hour or so and only come back to check the fluid. When you have pretty steady flow out of all bleeders close them off and pump the brakes. If the pedal doesnt get hard after a few pumps just hold it down anyway and have someone open the right rear bleeder screw for a few seconds then close it and pump the brakes up again. It sounds like you just got a LOT of air in the brakes. Even if the master cylinder was bad you would still be able to bleed the brakes you just wouldnt be able to keep a hard pedal when you were done. Kind of a long winded answer but hopefully if helps. If you want more details just send me an email or IM. Good Luck!!!Is my brake master cylinder bad?
is your brake warning light on?.....if so....it is your proportioning valve.....it,s purpose is to regulate the flow....regulate pressure...approx. 75% front-25% rear....it also will cut off either front or rear in case of hydraulic failure...%26amp; will turn on the warning light.......if it has shut off flow to your front...you,ll never get them bled unless you center the valve first....to do this you,ll need the help of a friend.....close front hydraulic,s...pump up brake,s %26amp; hold....open rear bleeder untill light turn,s off...close bleeder.....then lessen pressure on pedal slightly....proceed to bleed front....if the light come,s back on...you must recenter the valve.....it is located aprox. 10 inch,s directly below the master.....some model,s had a 1/8 hole in the side...after centering...insert a 1/8 drill bit in the hole to keep the valve from cycling...then you can bleed as in old day,s.....don,t forget to remove drill bit when done...good luck!.......if your problem still exist,s....change master....bench bleed it first.....also change front brake hoses....they have been known to cause similar problem,s......e-mail if you need further assistance...once again.....good luck!Is my brake master cylinder bad?
The one obvious thing I miss from your description is:
Did you fill the master cylinder reservioir?Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Get a good bleeder kit or a cleaned out oil squirt can and clean brake fluid and introduce the fluid at the bleeder on the caliper... this will force the air bubbles to rise into the master cyl. resevoir... sometimes a system has to be bled backwards to get initial pressure and then it can be bled conventional... hope this helps... oh yes...you will need a small hose to connect the can to the bleeder valve...Is my brake master cylinder bad?
It could be either the master cylinder, or the proportioning valve, or both. Try this, press on the brake, and hold pressure. Does it continue to go down? You have either a leak or a bad master cylinder if so. Let off slightly and press again. Does it go to the floor? You definitely have a bad one if that happens. I'd change out the master cylinder first, see if that corrects the problem.
Sounds like you probably did the wrong repair, so now you still have the original problem plus some problems that you created your self.
Start from the top by getting all 4 wheels off and inspecting the whole system. I don't remember if a 99 malibu has rear disk or drum, i think drum. The most common reasons for excessive pedal travel, the first being the rear brakes out of adjustment.Adjust rear brakes with the star wheel, you want enough drag to give the drum a good spin and only getting about 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution out of it when you let go of it. The next likely cause of excessive pedal travel is a leak in the system, at this point its most likely the rear wheel cylinders.
If you've now determined the brakes are properly adjusted and you have no hydraulic leaks, open all 4 blead screws and gravity bleed tell you see fluid dripping out all 4. Then close and bleed all the way around starting at wheel farthest away from master and working in order to closest.
You may have been taking alot of air into the sys when you had a leak or durring the repair so bleeding it may be tough, but the gravity bleed first should help.
If you get this far and still have the same problem clamp off all 4 of the rubber brake hoses. Now you should have a hard pedal even if there is still air in the system, if not it should be a bad master(usually a bad master gives you a good pedal right at first then slowly drops.) If the pedals hard hold it down then have an assistant begin removing the clamps on the hoses, again starting furthest from the master and working closer in order. When you remove a clamp at a certain wheel and the pedal drops you just found the leak or the air pocket.
Dude don't over complicate this. Even if its white its not the space shuttle. I'm telling you, do the clamp test its saved my butt many times, and I've showed pro techs how to do it and they were thankfull.
You can buy clamps for brake hoses at most parts stores for probably 20 bucks, in a pinch you can use vice grips witha shop rag wraped around to protect the hoses. Brake Basics 101 start from the farthest point from the master and work your way back towars the master when you remove a clamp and the pedal drops you found the problem.Dont guess. TEST. Do this and get out of the heat.Is my brake master cylinder bad?
That seems odd.
I doubt your master cylinder is bad.
There is a proportioning valve that blocks the flow of brake fluid in the event you have a brake line failier.
Close the bleeders.
Pump up the brakes.
Have SOMEONE ELSE open one of the bleeders WHILE you hold the pedal down.
Repeat this several times and don't let the master cylinder go dry. Otherwise you'll have to start all over.
ADDED:
Adjust your rear brakes too.Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Ok so are you doing this by yourself? This may sound insulting but I gotta ask to be sure I'm giving you the right answer so here goes. You do know that it takes two people to bleed brakes and that you dont pump with the bleeder open right?? If you pump with the bleeder open you just keep sucking more air in when the pedal goes back up. That being said....If you doing it right, your first step is to open all the bleeders for the brakes, front and rear, and let them %26quot;gravity bleed%26quot;. That means just walk away for about half an hour or so and only come back to check the fluid. When you have pretty steady flow out of all bleeders close them off and pump the brakes. If the pedal doesnt get hard after a few pumps just hold it down anyway and have someone open the right rear bleeder screw for a few seconds then close it and pump the brakes up again. It sounds like you just got a LOT of air in the brakes. Even if the master cylinder was bad you would still be able to bleed the brakes you just wouldnt be able to keep a hard pedal when you were done. Kind of a long winded answer but hopefully if helps. If you want more details just send me an email or IM. Good Luck!!!Is my brake master cylinder bad?
is your brake warning light on?.....if so....it is your proportioning valve.....it,s purpose is to regulate the flow....regulate pressure...approx. 75% front-25% rear....it also will cut off either front or rear in case of hydraulic failure...%26amp; will turn on the warning light.......if it has shut off flow to your front...you,ll never get them bled unless you center the valve first....to do this you,ll need the help of a friend.....close front hydraulic,s...pump up brake,s %26amp; hold....open rear bleeder untill light turn,s off...close bleeder.....then lessen pressure on pedal slightly....proceed to bleed front....if the light come,s back on...you must recenter the valve.....it is located aprox. 10 inch,s directly below the master.....some model,s had a 1/8 hole in the side...after centering...insert a 1/8 drill bit in the hole to keep the valve from cycling...then you can bleed as in old day,s.....don,t forget to remove drill bit when done...good luck!.......if your problem still exist,s....change master....bench bleed it first.....also change front brake hoses....they have been known to cause similar problem,s......e-mail if you need further assistance...once again.....good luck!Is my brake master cylinder bad?
The one obvious thing I miss from your description is:
Did you fill the master cylinder reservioir?Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Get a good bleeder kit or a cleaned out oil squirt can and clean brake fluid and introduce the fluid at the bleeder on the caliper... this will force the air bubbles to rise into the master cyl. resevoir... sometimes a system has to be bled backwards to get initial pressure and then it can be bled conventional... hope this helps... oh yes...you will need a small hose to connect the can to the bleeder valve...Is my brake master cylinder bad?
It could be either the master cylinder, or the proportioning valve, or both. Try this, press on the brake, and hold pressure. Does it continue to go down? You have either a leak or a bad master cylinder if so. Let off slightly and press again. Does it go to the floor? You definitely have a bad one if that happens. I'd change out the master cylinder first, see if that corrects the problem.
How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?
I have a 1977 GMC MIDAS motor-home, and I am having a hard time with the brakes. It has 4 disc brakes. I changed the front pads, and calipers on both sides. I tried bleeding the lines but the pedal is still really soft. I have to push the pedal all the way down until I feel brakes, and that's with new pads and calipers. The rotors do not looked warped. I read something about turning the wheel to both locks to engage the pump or something? I tried everything, I think it may have a brake power boost system. I did add brake fluid to the master cylinder because it went down after the bleeding process, which I hope was what I was supposed to add. Anyone have any ideas, or somewhere that the proper bleeding process is described for this vehicle?How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?
it still has air in the system
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
it still has air in the system
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
I had to change the front brake pads in my 95 chevrolet beretta a couple of days ago. I bled the tires then added in more brake fluid. When I pressed the brake pedal it went to the floor and didn't stop the car from moving.
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do thatHow do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct ordernone icons work on xp laptop dvd movies case
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do thatHow do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct order
Mercedes 240d maintenance?
I have a 1982 240d and would like to know how often I should change the oil, transmission fluid, coolent, brake fluid, power sterring fuid, and any other fluid if I left any out. Also what kind of filters are in it, and how often should they be changed?
Thanks.Mercedes 240d maintenance?
oil = @3,500 miles with quality brand 15w 40 non synthetic oil for diesel engines
transmission fluid and filter = as needed and @30,000 miles
coolant = as needed and @50,000 miles
brake fluid = as needed to work on system
power steering fuid = there is also a filter in there probably.. as needed and @100,000 miles
And any other fluid if I left any out: grease all zirk fittings @once per year.. trunk release, hood release, hood hinges WD40 as needed...
Algae treatment for the diesel fuel as needed and replacing fuel filters as needed...
Does this help any?Mercedes 240d maintenance?
Should be lots of info on the Net, or, hit your local library and go to the automotive section and ckeck out the repair manuals. There should be all the info that you require. Or alternatly, pop by your local Benz dealer, and check with a service advisor, I'm sure that they would be willing to supply all the info that you need. Good luck!Mercedes 240d maintenance?
usually the engine oil is changed every 3000 miles. The brake fluid if dot3 is sometimes specified by manufactureer to be replaced eveery year since under heavy braking, the heat generated can boil and vaporize the fluid, resulting in a spongy pedal or complete loss of brakes( ASE certified in brake system).
Trans fluid can be sometimes changed as early as 20000 miles. I try to change my coolant every 2 years, though five years i believe is the max. P/S fluid is rarely ever changed if at all. with the oil change these filters: engine oil and trans fluid.Mercedes 240d maintenance?
Every one should have a manual for their car follow the guide lines. Oh and by the way synthictic oil is being used in diesel i run it my self Amsoil 15-40 also Valvoline makes a synthitic calles extreme Blue good stuff stays clean and does the job i change mine out at about 9000. And every time i change my oil i always change the fuel filter. I also use a K and N reusable filter. It costs but you clean it yourself with the spray on stuff they give you with the filter and a spray on oil pop it in and you get better milage and more power cause it breathes better.
Thanks.Mercedes 240d maintenance?
oil = @3,500 miles with quality brand 15w 40 non synthetic oil for diesel engines
transmission fluid and filter = as needed and @30,000 miles
coolant = as needed and @50,000 miles
brake fluid = as needed to work on system
power steering fuid = there is also a filter in there probably.. as needed and @100,000 miles
And any other fluid if I left any out: grease all zirk fittings @once per year.. trunk release, hood release, hood hinges WD40 as needed...
Algae treatment for the diesel fuel as needed and replacing fuel filters as needed...
Does this help any?Mercedes 240d maintenance?
Should be lots of info on the Net, or, hit your local library and go to the automotive section and ckeck out the repair manuals. There should be all the info that you require. Or alternatly, pop by your local Benz dealer, and check with a service advisor, I'm sure that they would be willing to supply all the info that you need. Good luck!Mercedes 240d maintenance?
usually the engine oil is changed every 3000 miles. The brake fluid if dot3 is sometimes specified by manufactureer to be replaced eveery year since under heavy braking, the heat generated can boil and vaporize the fluid, resulting in a spongy pedal or complete loss of brakes( ASE certified in brake system).
Trans fluid can be sometimes changed as early as 20000 miles. I try to change my coolant every 2 years, though five years i believe is the max. P/S fluid is rarely ever changed if at all. with the oil change these filters: engine oil and trans fluid.Mercedes 240d maintenance?
Every one should have a manual for their car follow the guide lines. Oh and by the way synthictic oil is being used in diesel i run it my self Amsoil 15-40 also Valvoline makes a synthitic calles extreme Blue good stuff stays clean and does the job i change mine out at about 9000. And every time i change my oil i always change the fuel filter. I also use a K and N reusable filter. It costs but you clean it yourself with the spray on stuff they give you with the filter and a spray on oil pop it in and you get better milage and more power cause it breathes better.
2000 Dodge Neon help...anyone?
I have a 2000 Dodge Neon its a 4 cylinder and the other day my brakes went completely out. I checked the brake fluid and it was low so I bought more just to make it home (around the corner) and by the time I got home it was very low again. So an hour after I got it home I went outside and saw brake fluid on the ground it was under my driver's side back tired only. What does that sound like to you? I want to say it is the wheel cylinder but I am not 100% sure or maybe you think the brake line needs to be replaced or the it is just the caliper? Also is it best to change the back brake because of all the possible brake fluid on it? How much does it cost for the part typically. Thank you in advance! :)2000 Dodge Neon help...anyone?
that is an all wheel disk brakes car, so the rear would have a rotor and caliper and pads, you can clean the rotor with brake cleaner to get the brake fluid off, you don't need to replace it just because of that. as for the leak itself most likely it is a brake line or brake hose, it could be the caliper however, the best way to tell is to crawl underneath and look at the line and hose while someone pumps the brake to cause the fluid to spray out making it well, pretty obvious. - make sure to fill the reservoir before doing this.
that is an all wheel disk brakes car, so the rear would have a rotor and caliper and pads, you can clean the rotor with brake cleaner to get the brake fluid off, you don't need to replace it just because of that. as for the leak itself most likely it is a brake line or brake hose, it could be the caliper however, the best way to tell is to crawl underneath and look at the line and hose while someone pumps the brake to cause the fluid to spray out making it well, pretty obvious. - make sure to fill the reservoir before doing this.
What do I need to do for routine bike maintenance?
I bought a 2005 Yamaha R6 a month ago, and I was just wondering what I need to do for routine maintenance. How often do I:
-change the oil
-lube the chain
-bleed the brakes
Also, how do I lube the chain and bleed the breaks? Where can I get replacement brake fluid and chain lube?
Is there anything else I need to do for routine maintenance? Thanks a lot it's much appreciated.What do I need to do for routine bike maintenance?
oil=every 3000 miles
chain=every 1000 miles +or- depending on conditions
brake bleeding is not necessary unless the brakes feel like they are working improperly. If you need to do it routinely bleed and replace the lines once a year.
other maintenance, air filter every 3rd oil change, tire pressure routinely, cable lubrication at oil change interval, clutch and throttle adjustments when needed.
Fork oil and seals replace when needed or leaking.
-change the oil
-lube the chain
-bleed the brakes
Also, how do I lube the chain and bleed the breaks? Where can I get replacement brake fluid and chain lube?
Is there anything else I need to do for routine maintenance? Thanks a lot it's much appreciated.What do I need to do for routine bike maintenance?
oil=every 3000 miles
chain=every 1000 miles +or- depending on conditions
brake bleeding is not necessary unless the brakes feel like they are working improperly. If you need to do it routinely bleed and replace the lines once a year.
other maintenance, air filter every 3rd oil change, tire pressure routinely, cable lubrication at oil change interval, clutch and throttle adjustments when needed.
Fork oil and seals replace when needed or leaking.
Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
what
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
How do I reattach my brake line?
I took off the my roter to change my cv axel, i took off the brake line but now i cant get it bake on. when i pump the brake it wont firm up. the nut seem to have a whole in for the fluid and im not if its lineing up right. Im down for the count. anyone have any ideas?How do I reattach my brake line?
well the bolt is called a banjo bolt it goes through the line with the hole in it and then it screws into caliper and dont forget the brass washer it goes like this caliper,washer line and insert banjo bolt through brass hole in line and all is screwed into caliper ,, then after it is tight there is a bleeder valve on caliper it looks like a nipple sticking out kinda blunt with a hole in it and a nut mounted at base you have to pump up peddle 5 or 6 times and hold down tight and have someone open bleeder valve air will come out but do not release pressure on peddle as it will go to floor ao keep it pushed to floor and close bleeder valve and pump up peddle again and repeat 3 to 4 times untill all air is removed from line you will know because break peddle will firm up hard... and be sure you keep master cylinder full of break fluid when doing this....advice from vegan web proxy server
well the bolt is called a banjo bolt it goes through the line with the hole in it and then it screws into caliper and dont forget the brass washer it goes like this caliper,washer line and insert banjo bolt through brass hole in line and all is screwed into caliper ,, then after it is tight there is a bleeder valve on caliper it looks like a nipple sticking out kinda blunt with a hole in it and a nut mounted at base you have to pump up peddle 5 or 6 times and hold down tight and have someone open bleeder valve air will come out but do not release pressure on peddle as it will go to floor ao keep it pushed to floor and close bleeder valve and pump up peddle again and repeat 3 to 4 times untill all air is removed from line you will know because break peddle will firm up hard... and be sure you keep master cylinder full of break fluid when doing this....
Basic car maintenance, any advice?
Ok... So... Anyone want to give me some advice on basic maintenance..
How often should the oil be checked, how often changed?
How often should the transmission fluid be changed?
How often should the brake fluid be checked, how often changed?
Antifreeze?
What else should be checked, how often?
What can be used to clean the engine and everything in the engine compartment? Is it safe to wipe everything down with a wet cloth - plain water, or can I use a cleaning solution?
It's an 05 Chevy Cavalier, if that helps? Basic car maintenance, any advice?
Check fluid every fill up with fuel. change oil every 3000 miles. change trans. fluid once a year. check brake fluid every 6 months. if brake fluid is low have brakes checked might need replacing. I check my antifreeze level once a month. Remember to check it when the engine is cool. First thing before running the engine to avoid getting burned. the brake fluid doesn't need to be changed unless you get the braes supper hot. To clean use some grease remover and hot watter. avoid getting wires wet. best to take it to a detailing shop to get the engine cleaned.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
all the answers are when you fill your gas tank you should look at everything under the hood also walk around the car and look at the tires..give it a good once over and you should be fine.to clean the engine compartment get a can of gunk engine brite,spray on engine but not the altenator,then pressure wash it off.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
To be honest if you have the maual to your car it will tell you when to change all of those fluids. I always check my fluids every time I fill up with gas or when I go on a long road trip. As for change I change my oil every 3000 miles some people will tell you different it all depends on what the oil looks like. I change my transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. Brake fluid really doesn't have a set milage, I changed mine when I turned brown, it should be almost clear. Coolant is 30,000 to 45,000 miles or when it turns a brown color. I cant remember what color is in the cavaliers red or green. If you want to clean the engine you can use a pressure spayer on it. When I spray my engine I leave it running so if there is any standing water it will dissapate with heat. As far as cleaners a mild soap and water will be fine. I would look at your maual to your car and it will tell you when to do your scheduled maintenance on your vehicle. I hope this helps.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
check your oil at every fill up and change it every three months or 3000 miles, which ever comes first. transfuild is about every 50000 miles but never over 100000 miles as most places won't do it the first time over 100000. brake jobs drain most of the fluid so it's added at brake jobs. anti freeze depends on what type of coolant. the new pink stuff says 100000 miles but if it looks dirty or not pink any more, change it. the green stuff every 30000. check your tire pressure often. change your fuel filter every 30-50000. change your air filter at least once a year depending on how dirty your area is.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
Check your oil every other week, or if oil leak is present every day.
Change the motor oil every 3,000 miles.
Spark plugs every 10,000 miles.
Trans. 10,000 miles.
Brake fluid, well you should feel the difference on the brake pedal, also have your brake pads checked.
Anti-freeze every 10 to 15 thousand miles.
Water hoses, belts, tires and battery should also be checked.
Take your car to the local car wash, there is a section for engine wash.
P.S. Check your owners manual for more info.
How often should the oil be checked, how often changed?
How often should the transmission fluid be changed?
How often should the brake fluid be checked, how often changed?
Antifreeze?
What else should be checked, how often?
What can be used to clean the engine and everything in the engine compartment? Is it safe to wipe everything down with a wet cloth - plain water, or can I use a cleaning solution?
It's an 05 Chevy Cavalier, if that helps? Basic car maintenance, any advice?
Check fluid every fill up with fuel. change oil every 3000 miles. change trans. fluid once a year. check brake fluid every 6 months. if brake fluid is low have brakes checked might need replacing. I check my antifreeze level once a month. Remember to check it when the engine is cool. First thing before running the engine to avoid getting burned. the brake fluid doesn't need to be changed unless you get the braes supper hot. To clean use some grease remover and hot watter. avoid getting wires wet. best to take it to a detailing shop to get the engine cleaned.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
all the answers are when you fill your gas tank you should look at everything under the hood also walk around the car and look at the tires..give it a good once over and you should be fine.to clean the engine compartment get a can of gunk engine brite,spray on engine but not the altenator,then pressure wash it off.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
To be honest if you have the maual to your car it will tell you when to change all of those fluids. I always check my fluids every time I fill up with gas or when I go on a long road trip. As for change I change my oil every 3000 miles some people will tell you different it all depends on what the oil looks like. I change my transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. Brake fluid really doesn't have a set milage, I changed mine when I turned brown, it should be almost clear. Coolant is 30,000 to 45,000 miles or when it turns a brown color. I cant remember what color is in the cavaliers red or green. If you want to clean the engine you can use a pressure spayer on it. When I spray my engine I leave it running so if there is any standing water it will dissapate with heat. As far as cleaners a mild soap and water will be fine. I would look at your maual to your car and it will tell you when to do your scheduled maintenance on your vehicle. I hope this helps.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
check your oil at every fill up and change it every three months or 3000 miles, which ever comes first. transfuild is about every 50000 miles but never over 100000 miles as most places won't do it the first time over 100000. brake jobs drain most of the fluid so it's added at brake jobs. anti freeze depends on what type of coolant. the new pink stuff says 100000 miles but if it looks dirty or not pink any more, change it. the green stuff every 30000. check your tire pressure often. change your fuel filter every 30-50000. change your air filter at least once a year depending on how dirty your area is.Basic car maintenance, any advice?
Check your oil every other week, or if oil leak is present every day.
Change the motor oil every 3,000 miles.
Spark plugs every 10,000 miles.
Trans. 10,000 miles.
Brake fluid, well you should feel the difference on the brake pedal, also have your brake pads checked.
Anti-freeze every 10 to 15 thousand miles.
Water hoses, belts, tires and battery should also be checked.
Take your car to the local car wash, there is a section for engine wash.
P.S. Check your owners manual for more info.
2007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
This is for a class about getting to know a car.
I need to know:
-How many Months or Mileage does it take to change oil?
-How many Months or Mileage change the oil filter?
-How many Months or Mileage Replace Fuel filter?
-How many Months or Mileage replace air filter?
-How many Months or Mileage to flush cooling system and replace coolant?
-How many Months or Mileage does it take to check all belts?
-How many Months or Mileage before checking brake fluid?
-How many Months or Mileage Change transmission fluid?
-How many Months or Mileage have a tune up?
PLZ need answers b4 Friday!!2007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
122007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
Yep, 12.2007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
Deff 12....Also next time try to post this question in general motors as you have psoted in BMW, your answers will be limited.
I need to know:
-How many Months or Mileage does it take to change oil?
-How many Months or Mileage change the oil filter?
-How many Months or Mileage Replace Fuel filter?
-How many Months or Mileage replace air filter?
-How many Months or Mileage to flush cooling system and replace coolant?
-How many Months or Mileage does it take to check all belts?
-How many Months or Mileage before checking brake fluid?
-How many Months or Mileage Change transmission fluid?
-How many Months or Mileage have a tune up?
PLZ need answers b4 Friday!!2007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
122007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
Yep, 12.2007 Aston Martin DBS V12 questions?
Deff 12....Also next time try to post this question in general motors as you have psoted in BMW, your answers will be limited.
How do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
I own a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6 3.8L Auto. I'm about 98% sure the ignition coil has gone out but I want to test it anyway. I have Chilton's repair manual and I'm honestly not getting a clue how to do this. I'm not stupid, I do most all routine maintenance myself (oil changes, trans fluid changes, spark plugs, brakes, etc) but this guide is just worded poorly. Can someone please explain to me how I can use my volt/ohm meter to check the ignition coil?!? THANKS!
Here's a picture of the same ignition coil that's in my car:
http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/images/6CyHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
The first thing is to think of your coil pack as 3 separate ignition coils, with each pair of high tension towers feeding one pair of cylinders. You have a 4 (small) pin electrical connector on that unit. 1 wire (coil pwr, B+) is common to the primary windings of all 3 coils, while the other 3 each are the other end of the circuit for the primary for one coil. So you want to connect one lead of your ohmmeter to the coil power terminal, and the other to each of the other terminals one at a time. This checks the 3 primary windings. In order to check the secondary windings, simply connect your ohmmeter to 1 pair of high tension terminals at a time, in pairs of 1+5, 2+6, and 3+4.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/
Couldn't find the specs for your Mustang, but I just coincidentally had answered a question concerning a '98 Contour before this, and they should be the same or at least pretty close to the same specs.
%26quot;Measure coil primary resistance between ignition coil pin 4 (B+) and pins 1 (coil 2), 2 (coil 3) and 3 (coil 1).
Resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If resistance is out of specifications, replace the coil pack. If resistance is within specifications, proceed to secondary windings testing.
Measure coil secondary resistance between the corresponding spark plug wire towers on the coil.
Resistance should be 12.8-13.1 kilohms (1,000 ohm scale). If secondary resistance is not within specification, replace the coil pack.%26quot;How do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
pull a spark plug replace it back into end wire lay on metal
crank over motor see spark if works
type into search box
how to check a car coilHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
Go to your local machanic they'll know whats best
Here's a picture of the same ignition coil that's in my car:
http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/images/6CyHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
The first thing is to think of your coil pack as 3 separate ignition coils, with each pair of high tension towers feeding one pair of cylinders. You have a 4 (small) pin electrical connector on that unit. 1 wire (coil pwr, B+) is common to the primary windings of all 3 coils, while the other 3 each are the other end of the circuit for the primary for one coil. So you want to connect one lead of your ohmmeter to the coil power terminal, and the other to each of the other terminals one at a time. This checks the 3 primary windings. In order to check the secondary windings, simply connect your ohmmeter to 1 pair of high tension terminals at a time, in pairs of 1+5, 2+6, and 3+4.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/
Couldn't find the specs for your Mustang, but I just coincidentally had answered a question concerning a '98 Contour before this, and they should be the same or at least pretty close to the same specs.
%26quot;Measure coil primary resistance between ignition coil pin 4 (B+) and pins 1 (coil 2), 2 (coil 3) and 3 (coil 1).
Resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If resistance is out of specifications, replace the coil pack. If resistance is within specifications, proceed to secondary windings testing.
Measure coil secondary resistance between the corresponding spark plug wire towers on the coil.
Resistance should be 12.8-13.1 kilohms (1,000 ohm scale). If secondary resistance is not within specification, replace the coil pack.%26quot;How do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
pull a spark plug replace it back into end wire lay on metal
crank over motor see spark if works
type into search box
how to check a car coilHow do I check the ignition coil on my 2001 Ford Mustang?
Go to your local machanic they'll know whats best
My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
I drive a 1999 Toyota Tacoma with ~ 45,000 miles, mostly in great shape (low miles). I just had it through the garage twice (once for oil / transmission fluid change and once for a check engine light that turned out to be air sensors). But there are two nagging issue that the mechanics have yet to identify:
When I'm at a full stop, foot resting on the brake, the brakes will let go and the car will roll forward if the radiator fan comes on or anything else begins drawing enough electricity. It seems the car doesn't have enough power to go around.
(The only other problem with the truck is that the gas pedal is a bit sticky when you try to press it sometimes. This isn't a big deal, but I'm not sure if that could be somehow related.)
Any idea how I could fix this problem? Is it possible a new battery or cleaning my batter connections may help? Thanks for your help!My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
The brakes could be a leaky check valve, faulty booster, or your master cylinder is developing problems.
Electrical is more than likely the alternator diodes.
Gas pedal problem probably requires replacing the throttle cable as it must be kinked or damaged somewhere.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
it should still be on woranty, i would go to the dealer and tell them about all these problems, a new toyota should not have that many problems.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
most braking systems run off engine vaccum the brake booster draws power off the intake. at a lower idle there is less vaccum in the engine. a power draw from the alternator will take more away from the engine look into power loss at the charging system then if thats not it try checking engine vaccum or check for any type of leaks in the braking system as far as the gas pedal sticking check the throttlebody see if it s carboned up often times that will cause it to stick.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
Electrical problems are NOT related to braking system! Your master cylinder may have leaky cups,but my first guess would be the vacuum booster has a seal leak!,,:-)=My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
sounds like the lines might have to be bled. get the air out of them.
When I'm at a full stop, foot resting on the brake, the brakes will let go and the car will roll forward if the radiator fan comes on or anything else begins drawing enough electricity. It seems the car doesn't have enough power to go around.
(The only other problem with the truck is that the gas pedal is a bit sticky when you try to press it sometimes. This isn't a big deal, but I'm not sure if that could be somehow related.)
Any idea how I could fix this problem? Is it possible a new battery or cleaning my batter connections may help? Thanks for your help!My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
The brakes could be a leaky check valve, faulty booster, or your master cylinder is developing problems.
Electrical is more than likely the alternator diodes.
Gas pedal problem probably requires replacing the throttle cable as it must be kinked or damaged somewhere.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
it should still be on woranty, i would go to the dealer and tell them about all these problems, a new toyota should not have that many problems.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
most braking systems run off engine vaccum the brake booster draws power off the intake. at a lower idle there is less vaccum in the engine. a power draw from the alternator will take more away from the engine look into power loss at the charging system then if thats not it try checking engine vaccum or check for any type of leaks in the braking system as far as the gas pedal sticking check the throttlebody see if it s carboned up often times that will cause it to stick.My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
Electrical problems are NOT related to braking system! Your master cylinder may have leaky cups,but my first guess would be the vacuum booster has a seal leak!,,:-)=My brakes sometimes lose power when at a full stop - how can I fix this?
sounds like the lines might have to be bled. get the air out of them.
How to open the caliper on a Yamaha raptor 350?
I am changing the brake pads on my quad and cannot get the caliper open enough to place new pads in with enough room to fit over the disc.
I have pushed the piston right the way in but it looks like the actual caliper which attaches to the frame is not in far enough.
I have tried force, removing some brake fluid and moving random screws in and out all to no avail.How to open the caliper on a Yamaha raptor 350?
the only moving part the calliper has is the piston,use one of the old pads with 2 %26quot;C%26quot;clamps, twist them in evenly until the piston is fully inside the calliper, there is no need to remove fluid -that is what the reservoir is for. that is the best I can do for you. P.S. you are positive you have the right pads there should be an innerr and an outer try looking at the old ones and match them up.i need printer driver using lip plumping gloss
I have pushed the piston right the way in but it looks like the actual caliper which attaches to the frame is not in far enough.
I have tried force, removing some brake fluid and moving random screws in and out all to no avail.How to open the caliper on a Yamaha raptor 350?
the only moving part the calliper has is the piston,use one of the old pads with 2 %26quot;C%26quot;clamps, twist them in evenly until the piston is fully inside the calliper, there is no need to remove fluid -that is what the reservoir is for. that is the best I can do for you. P.S. you are positive you have the right pads there should be an innerr and an outer try looking at the old ones and match them up.
How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
i just bought a 91 bmw 325i. after about a week i noticed a whining coming from the rear end, accompanied by a clunk that would occur when taking my foot completely off the gas while driving and pushing down on the gas, i didn't have to push it hard, just a little made the clunking noise. today i changed out the fluid which has a weight of 90 with 80w-90 fluid. it seems like the whining noise has quieted but i still have the clunk. could the two be related? i also have changed the brakes and checked to make sure the calipers compressed upon pushing on the brake pedal just to rule that out. could it just be the bearing i wonder?How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
check u joints if you hear a clunk not good so best you go to a shop have it look atHow can i tell if my differential is going bad?
check your u joints. when you changed your fluid, did you take off the cover on the diff to check your gears?How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
if it,s a rear wheel drive then the u-joints are in the front and the back on the driveshaft. the clunking noise you might check the nut on the pinion gear.How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
check drive shaft and trans mounts
check u joints if you hear a clunk not good so best you go to a shop have it look atHow can i tell if my differential is going bad?
check your u joints. when you changed your fluid, did you take off the cover on the diff to check your gears?How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
if it,s a rear wheel drive then the u-joints are in the front and the back on the driveshaft. the clunking noise you might check the nut on the pinion gear.How can i tell if my differential is going bad?
check drive shaft and trans mounts
My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996) ive changed the brake caliper that needed changing as all of the others were fine and topped up the brake fluid, the ABS comes on every now and again and ive seen one mechanic who said he had no idea what it was.
It had its MOT last wednesday and one of the failure points was the ABS light being on al the time.
I only ever drive in 2WD on roads and was just after a bt of info on how to cure this problem please
many thanks,
roosterpotatoes :)My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
I dont know, could be a number of things from brake pads worn or on backwards, bent part of the wheel, touchy sensor on your emergency brake lever, messed up fluid line, etc.....basically something wrong with your brake system, plan on it being expensive repair cost or cheap turn of a wrench. Find a mechanic that knows how to fix the problem, and post again if you have any odd noises or more pecific times when the light goes on, also ask the mechanic about stupid problems like a touchy lever, my abs light goes on when i dont have weight on the e-brake lever to keep it from moving.My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
warning light sensor could of gone bad, its most likely a computer problem and not a actual problem as long as the brakes are not locking upMy ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
it could be a loose connection between the abs wire and the connector on the caliperMy ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
Quite possible that you could have a bad wheel sensor. Every wheel has a sensor (4 wheel ABS) to sense the differential wheel speed. If this sensor goes bad or a wire shorts somehow, they will malfunction and turn on your light. The ABS light only indicates that your ABS is not functioning - brakes will work as normal so there is no reason to alarm.
It had its MOT last wednesday and one of the failure points was the ABS light being on al the time.
I only ever drive in 2WD on roads and was just after a bt of info on how to cure this problem please
many thanks,
roosterpotatoes :)My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
I dont know, could be a number of things from brake pads worn or on backwards, bent part of the wheel, touchy sensor on your emergency brake lever, messed up fluid line, etc.....basically something wrong with your brake system, plan on it being expensive repair cost or cheap turn of a wrench. Find a mechanic that knows how to fix the problem, and post again if you have any odd noises or more pecific times when the light goes on, also ask the mechanic about stupid problems like a touchy lever, my abs light goes on when i dont have weight on the e-brake lever to keep it from moving.My ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
warning light sensor could of gone bad, its most likely a computer problem and not a actual problem as long as the brakes are not locking upMy ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
it could be a loose connection between the abs wire and the connector on the caliperMy ABS light stays on the majority of the time (mitsubishi shogun 2.8 1996)?
Quite possible that you could have a bad wheel sensor. Every wheel has a sensor (4 wheel ABS) to sense the differential wheel speed. If this sensor goes bad or a wire shorts somehow, they will malfunction and turn on your light. The ABS light only indicates that your ABS is not functioning - brakes will work as normal so there is no reason to alarm.
Help with car brakes?
This happens is when it's cold outside usually. When I put the brake on, instead of the car stopping smoothly it stops abruptly making the entire car jolt almost. I definitely jolt in my seat. It'll keep doing that until the car is fully warm. Even afterwards I hear the back brakes almost like they're dragging? I don't know if that's the word. I'll step on the brakes slowly and I'll hear the back brakes making this weird noise. The only way I can explain is you know when you're on a bike on a gravel road and you put the brakes on but the bike sometimes still skids on the gravel...that's what it sounds and feels like but the car stops no problem. It's making me paranoid. I've had all the oils and fluids changed and new brake pads about a year ago. What could this be and how do I explain to a mechanic?? I drive a 99 Chev CavalierHelp with car brakes?
you need to have your drum brakes adjusted and possibly need to replace your drum brake shoes and springs. also you may need new drums.Help with car brakes?
the brake dust has built up on your rear brake drums they need to be checked out or replaced this a common problem the cavalier and sunfireHelp with car brakes?
I,de pull off the rear drums on the brakes and have a look there sounds like you got broken hardware floating around in the rear brakes.It can stillstop with broken stuff.But it sounds like you have busted peices inside the rear drum.Help with car brakes?
The brake system should be checked. Most brake shops offer a safety check for a low amount.
In my opinion though, it sounds like the rear brakes are worn and need to be replaced. If the rear brakes are locking, the shoes sound like they could very well be worn out.
If you explain the rear brakes locking to a mechanic, he'll know exactly what I'm talking about and most likely advise getting the rear brakes checked and replaced.
you need to have your drum brakes adjusted and possibly need to replace your drum brake shoes and springs. also you may need new drums.Help with car brakes?
the brake dust has built up on your rear brake drums they need to be checked out or replaced this a common problem the cavalier and sunfireHelp with car brakes?
I,de pull off the rear drums on the brakes and have a look there sounds like you got broken hardware floating around in the rear brakes.It can stillstop with broken stuff.But it sounds like you have busted peices inside the rear drum.Help with car brakes?
The brake system should be checked. Most brake shops offer a safety check for a low amount.
In my opinion though, it sounds like the rear brakes are worn and need to be replaced. If the rear brakes are locking, the shoes sound like they could very well be worn out.
If you explain the rear brakes locking to a mechanic, he'll know exactly what I'm talking about and most likely advise getting the rear brakes checked and replaced.
Changing fluids/ routine maintenance?
So im 15 and got%26quot; auto repair for dummies%26quot; book because i want to learn how to do routine maintenance and other stuff... well i checked my fluids in my moms car and i have 2 or 3 questions..
1. I checked the oil and it was a light brown/maroon color and i was wondering if that what its suppose to be?
2. I need a little bit more brake fluid and lot more window washing fluid.. but can i get another type of fluid and put it in with the other fluid already left in their?
3. If no then what if i cant find that exact solution thats in my car?
4. If i cant find the fluids and cant mix them together than how do i remove/drain the brake fluid and winder washing fluid out?Changing fluids/ routine maintenance?
Yes oil should be clean and a light brown, if it was black time for a change.
Find out for brake fluid if you need dot 3 or dot 4 (maybe even 5) the owners manual will say. Add that as needed and indicated on the resevoir. Toss whatever is left out unless you will use it quick( the fluid attractes water in an opened bottle, and water corrodes the brake system)
Window wash doesn't really care about colours, just make sure it will last to the lowest temp.Changing fluids/ routine maintenance?
oil color is normal fill to full mark with new oil
brake fluid looks dirty this is normal and add clean fluid to it-full to top
windshield wash fluid-add mix any type is ok
1. I checked the oil and it was a light brown/maroon color and i was wondering if that what its suppose to be?
2. I need a little bit more brake fluid and lot more window washing fluid.. but can i get another type of fluid and put it in with the other fluid already left in their?
3. If no then what if i cant find that exact solution thats in my car?
4. If i cant find the fluids and cant mix them together than how do i remove/drain the brake fluid and winder washing fluid out?Changing fluids/ routine maintenance?
Yes oil should be clean and a light brown, if it was black time for a change.
Find out for brake fluid if you need dot 3 or dot 4 (maybe even 5) the owners manual will say. Add that as needed and indicated on the resevoir. Toss whatever is left out unless you will use it quick( the fluid attractes water in an opened bottle, and water corrodes the brake system)
Window wash doesn't really care about colours, just make sure it will last to the lowest temp.Changing fluids/ routine maintenance?
oil color is normal fill to full mark with new oil
brake fluid looks dirty this is normal and add clean fluid to it-full to top
windshield wash fluid-add mix any type is ok
BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
OK all you brilliant people - I need your brains, experience and advice. I'm going to get my BMW serviced - first inspection 1 by the looks; its done 36k; is a 2005 BMW 3-M Sport. How much is this likely to cost me, and does anyone know if this will include the brake fluid. Car CBT suggests around 4800 miles until it needs servicing, but the small %26quot;clock%26quot; image is on which suggests the brake fluid needs changing. Many thanks in advance!!!!BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
BMW Inspection I should be accomplished by around 30K miles. Inspection II which is more intensive is done at or around 60K miles. Most of the M-3s in the USA have a 4 year 50K mileage warranty that covers all major problems. Read your owner's manual to see exactly what is covered and what is not. You can also buy an extended warranty if you feel the need. You may want to service your car before the 100K (10 years of usage) mileage if you only plan to keep the car for a LIFETIME. Brake Fluid should be changed every two years regardless of the mileage.BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
Full Service (includes discount) from ￡127.94
Interim Service (includes discount) from ￡81.07
MOT with full service (33% off MOT)
Going to the dealer costs a fortune, its better to go to a specialist.. The have the same knowledge at a lower price :)BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
Unless you drive the car very hard a lot of the time in a hot climate, I wouldn't bother with changing the brake fluid if the brakes feel OK. Does it stop well? Does the ABS cut in as expected? I know this is heresy, but I've never changed brake fluid just cos it's 2 yrs old. Been driving all sorts of cars for 30 yrs and never had a problem.common name given to kids hair
BMW Inspection I should be accomplished by around 30K miles. Inspection II which is more intensive is done at or around 60K miles. Most of the M-3s in the USA have a 4 year 50K mileage warranty that covers all major problems. Read your owner's manual to see exactly what is covered and what is not. You can also buy an extended warranty if you feel the need. You may want to service your car before the 100K (10 years of usage) mileage if you only plan to keep the car for a LIFETIME. Brake Fluid should be changed every two years regardless of the mileage.BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
Full Service (includes discount) from ￡127.94
Interim Service (includes discount) from ￡81.07
MOT with full service (33% off MOT)
Going to the dealer costs a fortune, its better to go to a specialist.. The have the same knowledge at a lower price :)BMW Series 3 M-Sport Servicing?
Unless you drive the car very hard a lot of the time in a hot climate, I wouldn't bother with changing the brake fluid if the brakes feel OK. Does it stop well? Does the ABS cut in as expected? I know this is heresy, but I've never changed brake fluid just cos it's 2 yrs old. Been driving all sorts of cars for 30 yrs and never had a problem.
When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
I have tried to release the pressure and open the fluid cap. I just can't get the piston to go in so that I can put on the new pads.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
Front or rear? The rear piston must be turned as well as pushed in. There are tools made for this or you can use needle noised pliers and turn at the same time you push. You will most likely need to use a tool designed for this.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
They sell a tool for that at your auto parts store.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
you can also use a C clamp. Using one of the old pads placed on the piston tighten the clamp until you get th episton to retracted completely.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
LEAVE THE INNER PAD ON THE CAL. AND USE A 'C' CLAMP AND JUST TIGHTEN IT UP THIS WILL DRAW THE PISTON IN, AFTER IT'S ALL THE WAY IN JUST RELEASE THE CLAMP.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
I do not know if it will work on that kind of car because I never worked on one before but on all the cars I have worked on I took a small block of wood %26amp; placed it over the piston %26amp; used a C clamp and twisted it down on the block of wood. It works great. But make sure the wood covers the whole piston %26amp; the clamp is in the middle of the wood to give it even pressure.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
try using the old pad and a c clamp, and if possible start the engine to free off the servo. then try to compress it but do not press the pedal or the job might take a wee while longer after you mop the fluid up.
Front or rear? The rear piston must be turned as well as pushed in. There are tools made for this or you can use needle noised pliers and turn at the same time you push. You will most likely need to use a tool designed for this.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
They sell a tool for that at your auto parts store.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
you can also use a C clamp. Using one of the old pads placed on the piston tighten the clamp until you get th episton to retracted completely.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
LEAVE THE INNER PAD ON THE CAL. AND USE A 'C' CLAMP AND JUST TIGHTEN IT UP THIS WILL DRAW THE PISTON IN, AFTER IT'S ALL THE WAY IN JUST RELEASE THE CLAMP.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
I do not know if it will work on that kind of car because I never worked on one before but on all the cars I have worked on I took a small block of wood %26amp; placed it over the piston %26amp; used a C clamp and twisted it down on the block of wood. It works great. But make sure the wood covers the whole piston %26amp; the clamp is in the middle of the wood to give it even pressure.When changing the brakes on a 2002 passat how do you get the piston to push in?
try using the old pad and a c clamp, and if possible start the engine to free off the servo. then try to compress it but do not press the pedal or the job might take a wee while longer after you mop the fluid up.
I drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
A few days ago I took my '01 Taurus into the dealership for an oil change and had asked them to check my brakes because I suspected I needed new brake pads.
After the oil change, the auto guy called me and said that my brake pads were all down to 1mm and that I may also need to replace one front rotor.
I called a few days later to get a quote for those replacements and the gal said she would type up a quote pulling the information from what was put in my file.
My jaw dropped to the floor when all of the following was included on my quote:
-Both front brake pads (expected)
-Both rear brake pads (expected)
-Front rotors (est. $198)
-Rear drums (est. $215)
-Rear shoes (est. $58)
-Wheel cylinders (est. $104)
-Hardware kit (est. $14)
-Labor estimated to be 3.8 hrs and charge of $272
Background on my car:
- 2001 Ford Taurus SES with 89,700 miles. All new tires last fall, always keep up on oil changes, all fluid levels, etc. Last fall my rear springs were replaced and I had to replace the timing belt gasket after a leak had started prior. The auto guy on the phone this week said, %26quot;everyone was impressed at how well you take care of your car. It's in perfect condition, except your brakes are low.%26quot;
There are NO leaks of brake fluid (or any fluid from beneath the hood or from the rear).
I know that sometimes rotors warp and have to be replaced, I've read that between 100,000-150,000 miles the rear drums MAY need to be replaced, and if your brake fluid is leaking, your wheel cylinders may need to be replaced.
My brake light never came on and there are no leaks. Should all of this auto work be necessary?- really? Or is the autobody trying to take me for another $940 bill?
Please HELP if you can!! I have some driving trips coming up this summer and need to get whatever fixed as soon as possible, but don't want to be charged an arm and a leg if it's not necessary.
THANK YOU in advance!!!I drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
First and foremost, there is no way your brake pads are down to only 1mm thick so the dude is off his rocker from the get go. Not only would the brake pad lining break up well before that point (relatively brittle stuff) but the metal studs that the brake lining is sintered (manufacturing process) around to help hold it to the metal backing of the pad would have long been exposed to the rotor and your car would have been making ungodly noises every time you hit the brake as the metal studs dug into the metal rotor face which you made no mention of in your posted question so im assuming thats not the case
-Front rotors (est. $198) - maybe, but there are two easy ways to check. run your finger along the rotor and feel for grooves...grooves being present will eat the new pads up at a much faster rate than a flat surface. Another way to check is most rotors have a minimum thickness specification cast into them somewhere. You can check this with calipers or even a ruler if need be. If the rotor is too thin, there is not enough metal present to handle the massive heat generated by braking and they are much more prone to warpage
-Rear drums (est. $215) - negative. Drum brake setups dont stop as well as discs but typically last FOREVER. You could also check the drums with the groove test I mentioned earlier. I had an 88 Bronco II that I put drums/brake shoes on that lasted 150k+ miles before they needed replacing
-Rear shoes (est. $58) - same as above...should not need replacing unless you drive like you are Mario freaking Andretti
-Wheel cylinders (est. $104) - typically the only reason to replace these is because they are leaking fluid. Take a flashlight and look for leaks on the inside face of the tire and back side of the axle flange (end of the axle housing where the rotor sits) assembly. Or does a 01 Taurus have IRS? I dont remember...either way brake fluid doesnt evaporate quickly at all so more than likely you would be able to see residue or some leftover evidence of a leak if one or both are bad. If you see fluid leaking out they need replacing. If your master cylinder stays full and you arent adding fluid, chances are they are fine
-Hardware kit (est. $14) - probably the springs and such that go with the new drum shoe setup but Im not exactly sure to comment reliably on this unless i knew exactly what it is
-Labor estimated to be 3.8 hrs and charge of $272 - sounds about right...how do they sleep at night?! :)
Good luck with your choice and hope your car lasts for many more miles!I drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
Only authorize replacement of the brake shoes, brake pads, only cut the rotors and drums, do not replace the wheel cylinders, only bleed them, do not replace the rotors unless they are indeed not true, Replace hardware kit for drums.
you can check all the intprices at http://www.autozone.com just browse like the internetI drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
First of all look at your quote. You are not going to have rear pads and shoes, its one or the other. Your car has rear drums and shoes.
ALWAYS replace rotors in pairs, if you don't you may get braking issues due to the rotor surfaces not being the same. If the rotors are not rusted too bad they may be able to resurface them instead of replacing them.
I have seen a lot of wheel cylinders freeze up or leak. Ask them to show you why it needs to be replaced.
Always a good idea to replace the hardware kit when doing rear shoes. If you don't you take the chance of a spring rusting and breaking that will create more problems. They may be able to resurface the drums if not under spec.
Remove the rear rotors and pads from your quote and recalculate.
any questions feel free to contact me.
After the oil change, the auto guy called me and said that my brake pads were all down to 1mm and that I may also need to replace one front rotor.
I called a few days later to get a quote for those replacements and the gal said she would type up a quote pulling the information from what was put in my file.
My jaw dropped to the floor when all of the following was included on my quote:
-Both front brake pads (expected)
-Both rear brake pads (expected)
-Front rotors (est. $198)
-Rear drums (est. $215)
-Rear shoes (est. $58)
-Wheel cylinders (est. $104)
-Hardware kit (est. $14)
-Labor estimated to be 3.8 hrs and charge of $272
Background on my car:
- 2001 Ford Taurus SES with 89,700 miles. All new tires last fall, always keep up on oil changes, all fluid levels, etc. Last fall my rear springs were replaced and I had to replace the timing belt gasket after a leak had started prior. The auto guy on the phone this week said, %26quot;everyone was impressed at how well you take care of your car. It's in perfect condition, except your brakes are low.%26quot;
There are NO leaks of brake fluid (or any fluid from beneath the hood or from the rear).
I know that sometimes rotors warp and have to be replaced, I've read that between 100,000-150,000 miles the rear drums MAY need to be replaced, and if your brake fluid is leaking, your wheel cylinders may need to be replaced.
My brake light never came on and there are no leaks. Should all of this auto work be necessary?- really? Or is the autobody trying to take me for another $940 bill?
Please HELP if you can!! I have some driving trips coming up this summer and need to get whatever fixed as soon as possible, but don't want to be charged an arm and a leg if it's not necessary.
THANK YOU in advance!!!I drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
First and foremost, there is no way your brake pads are down to only 1mm thick so the dude is off his rocker from the get go. Not only would the brake pad lining break up well before that point (relatively brittle stuff) but the metal studs that the brake lining is sintered (manufacturing process) around to help hold it to the metal backing of the pad would have long been exposed to the rotor and your car would have been making ungodly noises every time you hit the brake as the metal studs dug into the metal rotor face which you made no mention of in your posted question so im assuming thats not the case
-Front rotors (est. $198) - maybe, but there are two easy ways to check. run your finger along the rotor and feel for grooves...grooves being present will eat the new pads up at a much faster rate than a flat surface. Another way to check is most rotors have a minimum thickness specification cast into them somewhere. You can check this with calipers or even a ruler if need be. If the rotor is too thin, there is not enough metal present to handle the massive heat generated by braking and they are much more prone to warpage
-Rear drums (est. $215) - negative. Drum brake setups dont stop as well as discs but typically last FOREVER. You could also check the drums with the groove test I mentioned earlier. I had an 88 Bronco II that I put drums/brake shoes on that lasted 150k+ miles before they needed replacing
-Rear shoes (est. $58) - same as above...should not need replacing unless you drive like you are Mario freaking Andretti
-Wheel cylinders (est. $104) - typically the only reason to replace these is because they are leaking fluid. Take a flashlight and look for leaks on the inside face of the tire and back side of the axle flange (end of the axle housing where the rotor sits) assembly. Or does a 01 Taurus have IRS? I dont remember...either way brake fluid doesnt evaporate quickly at all so more than likely you would be able to see residue or some leftover evidence of a leak if one or both are bad. If you see fluid leaking out they need replacing. If your master cylinder stays full and you arent adding fluid, chances are they are fine
-Hardware kit (est. $14) - probably the springs and such that go with the new drum shoe setup but Im not exactly sure to comment reliably on this unless i knew exactly what it is
-Labor estimated to be 3.8 hrs and charge of $272 - sounds about right...how do they sleep at night?! :)
Good luck with your choice and hope your car lasts for many more miles!I drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
Only authorize replacement of the brake shoes, brake pads, only cut the rotors and drums, do not replace the wheel cylinders, only bleed them, do not replace the rotors unless they are indeed not true, Replace hardware kit for drums.
you can check all the intprices at http://www.autozone.com just browse like the internetI drive a 2001 Ford Taurus, is all this recommended auto work necessary?
First of all look at your quote. You are not going to have rear pads and shoes, its one or the other. Your car has rear drums and shoes.
ALWAYS replace rotors in pairs, if you don't you may get braking issues due to the rotor surfaces not being the same. If the rotors are not rusted too bad they may be able to resurface them instead of replacing them.
I have seen a lot of wheel cylinders freeze up or leak. Ask them to show you why it needs to be replaced.
Always a good idea to replace the hardware kit when doing rear shoes. If you don't you take the chance of a spring rusting and breaking that will create more problems. They may be able to resurface the drums if not under spec.
Remove the rear rotors and pads from your quote and recalculate.
any questions feel free to contact me.
How would i flush my old bad brake fluid and put in fresh new fluid in my honda accord?
did a brake job today. adjusted rear wheel, installed new pads and had the rotors checked as well as adjusted the parking brake. Did all that and the braking on the car itself is incredible. works great... i was going to flush it with a friend today but it got too late so we will do that tomorrow.
the brake fluid is DARK in there now haha. I know thats bad and I have no idea when it was changed last. just curious on how to get all that out of there and put in fresh fluid.
I know I don't have to bleed it since the brake pedal is firm and brakes very well but will I have to when getting new fluid in there? Thanks for all the info you can give
89 Honda AccordHow would i flush my old bad brake fluid and put in fresh new fluid in my honda accord?
you will have to bleed it. drain the master cylinder with a turkey baster. refill it, and start bleeding the calipers/ wheel cylinders till the fluid is clear. keep the reservoir topped off while you do it. set the fluid level to the full mark. you're done.How would i flush my old bad brake fluid and put in fresh new fluid in my honda accord?
well basically yes you do bleed the brakes .. drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. you may bleed to use something like a large syringe to draw all the bad fluid our of the master cylinder. then refill with fresh fluid . then bleed each wheel till the fluid is clear. just make sure to keep a check on the fluid level and add as needed.
the brake fluid is DARK in there now haha. I know thats bad and I have no idea when it was changed last. just curious on how to get all that out of there and put in fresh fluid.
I know I don't have to bleed it since the brake pedal is firm and brakes very well but will I have to when getting new fluid in there? Thanks for all the info you can give
89 Honda AccordHow would i flush my old bad brake fluid and put in fresh new fluid in my honda accord?
you will have to bleed it. drain the master cylinder with a turkey baster. refill it, and start bleeding the calipers/ wheel cylinders till the fluid is clear. keep the reservoir topped off while you do it. set the fluid level to the full mark. you're done.How would i flush my old bad brake fluid and put in fresh new fluid in my honda accord?
well basically yes you do bleed the brakes .. drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. you may bleed to use something like a large syringe to draw all the bad fluid our of the master cylinder. then refill with fresh fluid . then bleed each wheel till the fluid is clear. just make sure to keep a check on the fluid level and add as needed.
How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
I took it to a mechanic and the hoses and everything are swollen already. How long does that usually take to happen? I am trying to figure out how this happened. I took it in for an oil change last week, and now this happened. Or could it have been a problem from before? I bought the car about 2 months ago from a dealership. Just trying to figure out who is responsible.How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
If the brakes were completely out of fluid when the oil was added then the swollen lines would show up immediately. However if one adds oil to a low master cylinder, then it would take a long time to affect other parts in the break system because brake fluid doesn't mix well with oil. Brake fluid is water soluble and oil is not. Therefor, if the fluid level was low when you took it to get the oil changed it would have only affected the master cylinder and wouldn't have had time to get to the wheels and brake lines for quite some time. With what I am reading, I suspect this was done just before you bought the car, It's possibly that some brake fluid was used out of a can that was contaminated with oil.How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
Swollen hoses???
Break fluid is a type of oil. It is completely different from engine oil however.
I would completely empty the contaminated breake fluid from the system. Flush with more clean break fluid, refil l and bleed/adjust the breaks.
How do you know the hoses are %26quot;swollen%26quot;?
EricHow long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
what year?...i can't believe a little motor oil in brake fluid would do that.How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
This is a tough one to prove, nobody will admit fault, so you are pretty stuck. I suggest parking the car until it is completely flushed out and rubber parts are changed. I do find it odd that hoses are swelled up, oil shouldn't do this! Just my opinion. Rubber that can stand up to brake fluid should have no problem with regular oil, You need another professional opinion. After thinking about it, you may have a case against the place that you bought it, at this point you have nothing to lose but your stopping ability! By the way, the wrong type of fluid can cause problems that you are dealing with! Good luck!
If the brakes were completely out of fluid when the oil was added then the swollen lines would show up immediately. However if one adds oil to a low master cylinder, then it would take a long time to affect other parts in the break system because brake fluid doesn't mix well with oil. Brake fluid is water soluble and oil is not. Therefor, if the fluid level was low when you took it to get the oil changed it would have only affected the master cylinder and wouldn't have had time to get to the wheels and brake lines for quite some time. With what I am reading, I suspect this was done just before you bought the car, It's possibly that some brake fluid was used out of a can that was contaminated with oil.How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
Swollen hoses???
Break fluid is a type of oil. It is completely different from engine oil however.
I would completely empty the contaminated breake fluid from the system. Flush with more clean break fluid, refil l and bleed/adjust the breaks.
How do you know the hoses are %26quot;swollen%26quot;?
EricHow long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
what year?...i can't believe a little motor oil in brake fluid would do that.How long will my brakes last after oil was put in the brake fluid?
This is a tough one to prove, nobody will admit fault, so you are pretty stuck. I suggest parking the car until it is completely flushed out and rubber parts are changed. I do find it odd that hoses are swelled up, oil shouldn't do this! Just my opinion. Rubber that can stand up to brake fluid should have no problem with regular oil, You need another professional opinion. After thinking about it, you may have a case against the place that you bought it, at this point you have nothing to lose but your stopping ability! By the way, the wrong type of fluid can cause problems that you are dealing with! Good luck!
Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Any help greatly appreciated as have lost manual!Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Changing of brake fluid is exactly the same in all BMW models.
On every brake caliper, there is a %26quot;bleed nipple%26quot;, which; when loosened with a small wrench (8mm I believe), will start bleeding fluid. This is where you would connect the catch bottle.
1. Remove as much fluid from the brake fluid reservoir.
- Use a turkey baster
2. I recommend using a pressure bleeder with a bleed bottle
- Like this one from www.bavauto.com (Part : PB03K)
- Next, fill up the bleeder bottle with new fluid, attach the bleeder's cap to the reservoir and start pumping according to the pump's instructions.
3. Changing brake fluid is pretty much an extended bleeding. So, work from: RR, LR, RF, LF.
4. You can see a color change between the old and new fluid while bleeding. As soon as the fluid changes colors, you can stop the bleed and work on the next wheel.Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Buy a hanes manual.Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Go to your nearest motorfactors and get an EZI-BLEED, starting from the caliper the farthest away from the master cylinder,Gently crack off the blled nipple to make sure its free, connect the pipe of the bleed kit over the end of the bleed nipple,begin to gently pump brakes,once the fluid level in the resevoir drops to almost empty replace it with new fluid,once you have pumped all the fluid through to the back you will see the brake fluid go almost clear and air bubbles wil dissapear,once this happens,tighten up the bleed nipple then do the same always working from the farthest away,eg if the master cylinder is drivers side then start on the passenger rear then drivers rear then passenger frontguy myspace bird
Changing of brake fluid is exactly the same in all BMW models.
On every brake caliper, there is a %26quot;bleed nipple%26quot;, which; when loosened with a small wrench (8mm I believe), will start bleeding fluid. This is where you would connect the catch bottle.
1. Remove as much fluid from the brake fluid reservoir.
- Use a turkey baster
2. I recommend using a pressure bleeder with a bleed bottle
- Like this one from www.bavauto.com (Part : PB03K)
- Next, fill up the bleeder bottle with new fluid, attach the bleeder's cap to the reservoir and start pumping according to the pump's instructions.
3. Changing brake fluid is pretty much an extended bleeding. So, work from: RR, LR, RF, LF.
4. You can see a color change between the old and new fluid while bleeding. As soon as the fluid changes colors, you can stop the bleed and work on the next wheel.Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Buy a hanes manual.Does anyone know how to change the brake fluid on a BMW 730d please? Or any links for it?
Go to your nearest motorfactors and get an EZI-BLEED, starting from the caliper the farthest away from the master cylinder,Gently crack off the blled nipple to make sure its free, connect the pipe of the bleed kit over the end of the bleed nipple,begin to gently pump brakes,once the fluid level in the resevoir drops to almost empty replace it with new fluid,once you have pumped all the fluid through to the back you will see the brake fluid go almost clear and air bubbles wil dissapear,once this happens,tighten up the bleed nipple then do the same always working from the farthest away,eg if the master cylinder is drivers side then start on the passenger rear then drivers rear then passenger front
Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
I recently changed the two front brake pads for the first time and followed everything correctly and was fairly simple job. The brakes were fairly worn down on my truck so I decided it was time. I did not disconnect the brake lines but I did spill some brake fluid out of the master cylinder while compressing the dual pistons on one of the calipers.
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
Can bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
Hello all, I drive a 1981 civic fourdoor hatch back. Recently encountered a problem. My car is front wheel drive, I noticed that both the front wheels are getting extremely hot in normal running.
Mine is right hand drive and firstly the left front wheel gets extremely hot and then the right one.
Inorder to fix this problem I first changed the brake hose pipe but that didn't fix the problem, I then checked the callipers and they were free as well but my mechanic still lubricated them. Finally I checked the brake's master cylinder and changed the washers in it but still no change in the condition.
Now I cannot figure out what else to do as there is no burning of pads or anything related to braking but how ever once the wheels get hot then only the braking fluid gets hot and I have also noticed that the lug nuts are hotter as compared to the wheel hub itself.
Please let me know what are the factors that are causing this. I shall be thankful.Can bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
If the bearings were that bad and dried out, they'd be so noisy you couldn't hear the radio. It's more common for dragging brakes to make this kind of heat.Can bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
when you took the wheels of have you noticed any oil/ grease on the inside? possibility the wheel seals are bad and thus cause the bearings to go bad , i would not run the car any further the bub will get hot and bust off then you going down the road on 3 wheelsCan bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
The bearings could cause the wheel to get hot, but the chances of both bearings being bad causing this symtom are slim to none. The master is bad or the push rod from the booster is improperly adjusted.
Mine is right hand drive and firstly the left front wheel gets extremely hot and then the right one.
Inorder to fix this problem I first changed the brake hose pipe but that didn't fix the problem, I then checked the callipers and they were free as well but my mechanic still lubricated them. Finally I checked the brake's master cylinder and changed the washers in it but still no change in the condition.
Now I cannot figure out what else to do as there is no burning of pads or anything related to braking but how ever once the wheels get hot then only the braking fluid gets hot and I have also noticed that the lug nuts are hotter as compared to the wheel hub itself.
Please let me know what are the factors that are causing this. I shall be thankful.Can bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
If the bearings were that bad and dried out, they'd be so noisy you couldn't hear the radio. It's more common for dragging brakes to make this kind of heat.Can bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
when you took the wheels of have you noticed any oil/ grease on the inside? possibility the wheel seals are bad and thus cause the bearings to go bad , i would not run the car any further the bub will get hot and bust off then you going down the road on 3 wheelsCan bad bearings heatup the front wheels of my civic 1981?
The bearings could cause the wheel to get hot, but the chances of both bearings being bad causing this symtom are slim to none. The master is bad or the push rod from the booster is improperly adjusted.
Brake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
I opened it, didnt close it i guess...Now it sprayed all over my **** and the paint is scraping AWAY....Closed it and it stopped, but how do i fix this, do i need to change the whole front? Were can i buy it?
Thanks..Brake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
That's one of those mistakes we only make once. Sorry.. I know the feeling.. I dumped the contents of my front master cylinder onto a tank and fender once. You're gonna have to either sand it down and re-paint it or get replacement parts. You might be able to find them on ebay or at motorcycle salvage yards.
Damn.. Brake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
use dot 7 break fluid and this wont happen again, it will not hurt paint if it gets on itBrake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
Take the plastics off and take them to a fender bender fixer. They usually have extra paint and do side jobs. he can have ya painted like new for a fraction of the cost of any other method.
Thanks..Brake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
That's one of those mistakes we only make once. Sorry.. I know the feeling.. I dumped the contents of my front master cylinder onto a tank and fender once. You're gonna have to either sand it down and re-paint it or get replacement parts. You might be able to find them on ebay or at motorcycle salvage yards.
Damn.. Brake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
use dot 7 break fluid and this wont happen again, it will not hurt paint if it gets on itBrake fluid on my GSXR 750....?
Take the plastics off and take them to a fender bender fixer. They usually have extra paint and do side jobs. he can have ya painted like new for a fraction of the cost of any other method.
What should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
of course im a female and need to know how to prepare my vehicle for a road trip. its a 3yr old car , besides and oil change, gas, wiper fluid, the brakes are 3 weeks old. what else should i do to my vehicle to go on an 801.4 mile journeyWhat should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
Check the Coolant, motor oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and window washer fluid. Check the tire pressure - including the spare. Look at the belts and hoses.
Here's some things to take with you on your trip:
A cellular phone
Engine coolant
Sunglasses
A flashlight and extra batteries
Some blankets
Non-perishable food items like high-energy protein bars or trail mixes with nuts and raisins
Bottled water
A first aid kit
A properly inflated spare tire, jack and lug wrench
Jumper cables, signal flares, and other car emergency items
Warning device (flares or reflective triangles)
Pocket knife
Small toolkit that includes pliers, wrench and screwdriver
Extra quart of oil
Emergency $10 or $15 (for gas or other unexpected small purchases)
Atlas and state/local roadmaps (and/or GPS)
Emergency contact list (in case you are unable to provide this information)
%26quot;Call Police%26quot; sign
Paper towels
Empty gas can
I hope you have a fun and safe trip!What should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
Just take it to the shop and let them do a routine check up and inspect everything.What should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
Check The Air In Your Tires And Check All Your Orther Fluides Tranny Brake ECT!
Check the Coolant, motor oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and window washer fluid. Check the tire pressure - including the spare. Look at the belts and hoses.
Here's some things to take with you on your trip:
A cellular phone
Engine coolant
Sunglasses
A flashlight and extra batteries
Some blankets
Non-perishable food items like high-energy protein bars or trail mixes with nuts and raisins
Bottled water
A first aid kit
A properly inflated spare tire, jack and lug wrench
Jumper cables, signal flares, and other car emergency items
Warning device (flares or reflective triangles)
Pocket knife
Small toolkit that includes pliers, wrench and screwdriver
Extra quart of oil
Emergency $10 or $15 (for gas or other unexpected small purchases)
Atlas and state/local roadmaps (and/or GPS)
Emergency contact list (in case you are unable to provide this information)
%26quot;Call Police%26quot; sign
Paper towels
Empty gas can
I hope you have a fun and safe trip!What should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
Just take it to the shop and let them do a routine check up and inspect everything.What should i do to my vehicle before a road trip?
Check The Air In Your Tires And Check All Your Orther Fluides Tranny Brake ECT!
I cut through one brake rotor...?
So yeah. The guy who had this car before me apparently replaced 3 out of 4 rotors when he got the brakes changed(don't ask me why, ive wondered about this for weeks). Anyway, for a while that one rear brake rotor would just make the grinding noise consistent with a warped rotor, and today well. today after a *clunk* my brakes came back up to standard pressure, and the noise ceased. I pulled over, had a look, and lo and behold... no more disc part of the rotor, just the hub. I suspect im in danger of losing fluid, but since the pads on there are fine theyre just squeezing a hunk of the rotor. whats the prognosis? it stops better than it did before, can I just cap the brake line till i have the extra funds to replace that rotor?(spare me the lecture about how i should have done it before, you don't know my financials. ps, its an uncommon luxury car so each rotor is over 100 USD just to buy).I cut through one brake rotor...?
the caliper is bad thats why one wore out prematurely and youll need to fix your brake as this could become very dangerousI cut through one brake rotor...?
well, you should be fine, but that is a common rotor price, and if you have a luxury car be prepared to pay luxury prices, also should be able to do the work your self, it is relatively simple. If you can change a tire you can change a rotor.I cut through one brake rotor...?
if it is on a front wheel i would say to replace it. your car will jerk to the side that has the brake when you apply it. most of your breaking power comes from your front breaks too. i think capping the line would be fine til you get it fixed.I cut through one brake rotor...?
No don't drive it.
You will cause more damage to the break system and just rack up a larger bill.
Park it until you can fix it.I cut through one brake rotor...?
well if it is a new ish car you should be working on at least split diagonal break lines which means if you loose fluid from one wheel you will have at least 2 that do work for example: the front right goes but you still have your front left and back right working...either way if it isn't affecting your controls/handling on the road when braking or just driving then it should be fine to use....just make sure you can get it to a garage (or do it yourself) as soon as possible to be on the safe sideI cut through one brake rotor...?
Okay, here is some advice for the future. If you can't afford expensive maintenance don't buy uncommon luxury cars. Two you should of fixed the problem when you heard it grinding. what probably happened was that the caliper on that rotor went bad and and started clamping down way to hard when you pushed the brakes. Thus, wearing out the brake pads and denigrating the rotor over time. That brake line can be disconnected and capped. Make sure the brakes are not engaged what so ever. Note make sure it doesn't engage when you pull the parking brake also. Most of the braking is done with your front brakes any ways, that is why your car leans forward when you hit the brakes. This is not an advise able fix and i strongly encourage you to fix the brake as soon as possible and sell the car. You need to buy some thing that you can afford to maintain. P.S. you do need to hear the lecture. suck it up, grow up and do better. Good Luckwireless mouse how do i turn on my computer
the caliper is bad thats why one wore out prematurely and youll need to fix your brake as this could become very dangerousI cut through one brake rotor...?
well, you should be fine, but that is a common rotor price, and if you have a luxury car be prepared to pay luxury prices, also should be able to do the work your self, it is relatively simple. If you can change a tire you can change a rotor.I cut through one brake rotor...?
if it is on a front wheel i would say to replace it. your car will jerk to the side that has the brake when you apply it. most of your breaking power comes from your front breaks too. i think capping the line would be fine til you get it fixed.I cut through one brake rotor...?
No don't drive it.
You will cause more damage to the break system and just rack up a larger bill.
Park it until you can fix it.I cut through one brake rotor...?
well if it is a new ish car you should be working on at least split diagonal break lines which means if you loose fluid from one wheel you will have at least 2 that do work for example: the front right goes but you still have your front left and back right working...either way if it isn't affecting your controls/handling on the road when braking or just driving then it should be fine to use....just make sure you can get it to a garage (or do it yourself) as soon as possible to be on the safe sideI cut through one brake rotor...?
Okay, here is some advice for the future. If you can't afford expensive maintenance don't buy uncommon luxury cars. Two you should of fixed the problem when you heard it grinding. what probably happened was that the caliper on that rotor went bad and and started clamping down way to hard when you pushed the brakes. Thus, wearing out the brake pads and denigrating the rotor over time. That brake line can be disconnected and capped. Make sure the brakes are not engaged what so ever. Note make sure it doesn't engage when you pull the parking brake also. Most of the braking is done with your front brakes any ways, that is why your car leans forward when you hit the brakes. This is not an advise able fix and i strongly encourage you to fix the brake as soon as possible and sell the car. You need to buy some thing that you can afford to maintain. P.S. you do need to hear the lecture. suck it up, grow up and do better. Good Luck
Quick motorcycle service?
How much in 拢拢 would it cost to get a kawasaki zx636 06 plate serviced? I'm on a very tight buget and after service need, mot and then tax...tooo much moneyyy!
I just dont want to get ripped off. It doesn't need an oil change or a filter as thats been done 2 months ago, everything else eg, front dual brake pads, spark plugs, brake fluid needs changing and any minor adjustments eg chain.
How much should i expect to pay? I live in manchester, dont know if the prices vary where you live :|
Thank youQuick motorcycle service?
You could ask some of your local dealers what their hourly rate is, that would give you some idea. You could also ask your local college if they do courses for car bike servicing as some do.
It's not rocket science and with a few good tools and the makers manual you should be able to sort things out. You might also find a local motorcycle club that would help. Ask around, as we say in Yorkshire, You can ask for nowt, as it costs nowt, and actaully get summat!
Nowt = nothing
Summat = some thing.Quick motorcycle service?
If you do it yourself it will be considerably cheaper, chain is standard which you should do for yourself anyway, pads and plugs are pretty simple and the brake fluid takes a little bit of patience (and care with paintwork). Get a Haynes manual and some basic tools and it should still be cheaper than a service.
http://www.gear4bikes.com/images/haynes/
I just dont want to get ripped off. It doesn't need an oil change or a filter as thats been done 2 months ago, everything else eg, front dual brake pads, spark plugs, brake fluid needs changing and any minor adjustments eg chain.
How much should i expect to pay? I live in manchester, dont know if the prices vary where you live :|
Thank youQuick motorcycle service?
You could ask some of your local dealers what their hourly rate is, that would give you some idea. You could also ask your local college if they do courses for car bike servicing as some do.
It's not rocket science and with a few good tools and the makers manual you should be able to sort things out. You might also find a local motorcycle club that would help. Ask around, as we say in Yorkshire, You can ask for nowt, as it costs nowt, and actaully get summat!
Nowt = nothing
Summat = some thing.Quick motorcycle service?
If you do it yourself it will be considerably cheaper, chain is standard which you should do for yourself anyway, pads and plugs are pretty simple and the brake fluid takes a little bit of patience (and care with paintwork). Get a Haynes manual and some basic tools and it should still be cheaper than a service.
http://www.gear4bikes.com/images/haynes/
How do i check whats wrong with my ABS system, The light is on.?
MY ABS light has been on for a while now, the previous owner, a person i for the most part can trust, said after he changed the front brakes the light came on. maybe he damaged the sensors there while doing the brakes, ive heard these are cheap, but on top of the whole ABS modulator thing appears to be leaking brake fluid. Well i know im leaking fluid, couple drops a day, but im thinking its from the ABS controller, between the front right tire and headlight, the fluid leaks onto the ground. How can i check wher its leaking from, its hard to see, and where can i buy sensors or whatever i may need. a junkyard may have the sensors im told. Ive asked a couple ?'s about my car recently, its a 1992 Nissan Maxima ive had for two months. Thanks in advance!How do i check whats wrong with my ABS system, The light is on.?
Take it to a mechanic.
Take it to a mechanic.
Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
I have changed oil in my old Ford Explorer as well as my wifes Acura RDX...Is the BMW any more complicated? Any tips? How do you reset the service light. I am also due for a new microfilter and brake fluid? I think I can handle the microfilter. Any thoughts?Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
It is easier to change the oil on BMW's than on any other car I have ever seen. The filter is sitting on top of the engine just behind the radiator. You need to have either a 32 or 36 MM socket to open the reservoir that the filter sits in. The drain plug is no different than any other car.
BMW does recommend their own oil which is a special Castrol 5-W30 synthetic blend only sold by BMW dealers. My dealer charges $6.25 a quart but each dealer can set their own price.
You can go to bimmerforums.com to find specific instructions on how to reset the service lights. It is done by pushing the knob which controls the diagnostics. On earlier BMW's you had to use a special reset tool.
The brake fluid bleeding is straight forward like other cars. I use a Motive pressure bleeder which makes it very easy for one person to do the job.
The microfilter is very easy and again go to bimmrforums to see specific instructions.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
BMW is VERY specific about the type of oil to use, it MUST be full synthetic and I bet the owners manual calls for 0w-40, a 5w-40 would be fine too.
Check the owners manual as it will tell you specifically how much and what type of oil to use.
BMW actually has their own brand of oil designed to go the 15,000 miles between oil changes.
How to reset the service light should be in the owners manual as well.
BMW, VW, Land Rover, MB, Audi, Volvo...ALL recommend changing the brake fluid every 2 years no matter the miles.
Brake fluid absorbs moister and when it does it looses its braking power.
Flushing brake fluid will also extend the life of braking components, like the ABS modulator.
Flushing brake fluid is a 2 person job.
If you go to www.landroverforums.com and find the %26quot;Discovery%26quot; page there is a write up on how to flush the brake fluid on a Land Rover but the process is the same for every car and truck.
It will say on the brake fluid reservoir what type of brake fluid you need, DOT 3, DOT4, DOT5.
Your owners manual will tell you how much brake fluid you will need.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
Oil changes are more or less the same. You should check your oil cap or owners handbook for your fluid types. It should tell you how much oil the car will take as well as what type. You should be able to do it yourself with the experience you currently have.
As for your brakes, Brake systems are a closed hydraulic system...I wouldn't mess with it unless you really need to. Are you actually boiling your brake fluid? i doubt it. Brake fluid is recommended to be changed because the fluid will absorb water over time and that lowers it's boiling point. if you break heavy you can get water to boil causing air in the lines. if your brakes bite good and the pedal doesn't feel %26quot;spongy%26quot; then don't worry about brake fluid, keep the system closed. if you need to bleed it a little...but i doubt your doing hard enough braking to justify this. it's one of those book maintenance things that a lot of mechanics love to tell you that you need even when you don't.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
buy reset tool on ebay[to reset service light ]should be just same idea to ghange oil in bmw get good quality oil[synthetic] mind and get correct viscosity oil and a branded oil filter go onto bmw forums for pollen filter fitting as 4 brake fluid i dont think this will need disturbed unless it has mega miles on clockDo you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
wel if you change oil in any thing before its pretty much same a oil drain plug and a filter type of oil kind of depends on you 5w30 most any brand
It is easier to change the oil on BMW's than on any other car I have ever seen. The filter is sitting on top of the engine just behind the radiator. You need to have either a 32 or 36 MM socket to open the reservoir that the filter sits in. The drain plug is no different than any other car.
BMW does recommend their own oil which is a special Castrol 5-W30 synthetic blend only sold by BMW dealers. My dealer charges $6.25 a quart but each dealer can set their own price.
You can go to bimmerforums.com to find specific instructions on how to reset the service lights. It is done by pushing the knob which controls the diagnostics. On earlier BMW's you had to use a special reset tool.
The brake fluid bleeding is straight forward like other cars. I use a Motive pressure bleeder which makes it very easy for one person to do the job.
The microfilter is very easy and again go to bimmrforums to see specific instructions.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
BMW is VERY specific about the type of oil to use, it MUST be full synthetic and I bet the owners manual calls for 0w-40, a 5w-40 would be fine too.
Check the owners manual as it will tell you specifically how much and what type of oil to use.
BMW actually has their own brand of oil designed to go the 15,000 miles between oil changes.
How to reset the service light should be in the owners manual as well.
BMW, VW, Land Rover, MB, Audi, Volvo...ALL recommend changing the brake fluid every 2 years no matter the miles.
Brake fluid absorbs moister and when it does it looses its braking power.
Flushing brake fluid will also extend the life of braking components, like the ABS modulator.
Flushing brake fluid is a 2 person job.
If you go to www.landroverforums.com and find the %26quot;Discovery%26quot; page there is a write up on how to flush the brake fluid on a Land Rover but the process is the same for every car and truck.
It will say on the brake fluid reservoir what type of brake fluid you need, DOT 3, DOT4, DOT5.
Your owners manual will tell you how much brake fluid you will need.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
Oil changes are more or less the same. You should check your oil cap or owners handbook for your fluid types. It should tell you how much oil the car will take as well as what type. You should be able to do it yourself with the experience you currently have.
As for your brakes, Brake systems are a closed hydraulic system...I wouldn't mess with it unless you really need to. Are you actually boiling your brake fluid? i doubt it. Brake fluid is recommended to be changed because the fluid will absorb water over time and that lowers it's boiling point. if you break heavy you can get water to boil causing air in the lines. if your brakes bite good and the pedal doesn't feel %26quot;spongy%26quot; then don't worry about brake fluid, keep the system closed. if you need to bleed it a little...but i doubt your doing hard enough braking to justify this. it's one of those book maintenance things that a lot of mechanics love to tell you that you need even when you don't.Do you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
buy reset tool on ebay[to reset service light ]should be just same idea to ghange oil in bmw get good quality oil[synthetic] mind and get correct viscosity oil and a branded oil filter go onto bmw forums for pollen filter fitting as 4 brake fluid i dont think this will need disturbed unless it has mega miles on clockDo you recommend to change your own oil in a 2006 BMW 325i? What oil do you recommend? How do you reset?
wel if you change oil in any thing before its pretty much same a oil drain plug and a filter type of oil kind of depends on you 5w30 most any brand
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